Argentina 2005

Argentina 2005 Itinerary

Friday, May 20: Fly from Buenos Aires to Salta.  Sleep at Posada del Sol.
Saturday, May 21:  Salta.  Tour with Osvaldo of Tastil, San Antonio de las Cobres, Las Salina Grandes, Purmamarca.  Sleep in Tilcara at Hotel del Turismo Tilcara.
Sunday, May 22:  Salta:  Visit ruins and the museum in Tilcara, Humahuaca.  Sleep in small town of Iruya.
Monday, May 23:  Buenos Aires:  Shop in Calle Florida, Empire Restaurant with Martin, Sleep at Hotel Victory
Tuesday, May 24:  Fly to Corrientes and fish in afternoon at Don Julian Cabana.
Wednesday, May 25:  Fish in Corrientes at Don Julian.  Bus to Iguazu at 11:30PM.
Thursday, May 26:  Iguazu-Brazil Side.  Sleep at Sheraton.
Friday, May 27:  Iguazu-Argentina side.  Sleep at Sheraton.
Saturday, May 28:  Iguazu; fly to Buenos Aires; Iglesia de Pilar, Recoleta, Italian food, shopping. licuado with Mandy near Calle Florida
Sunday, May 29:  Bueno Aires:  San Telmo flea market, Mendoza plaza, Boca, tango, submarinos, calle Florida, Puerto Madero with Freddo ice cream.
Monday, May 30:  Buenos Aires-San Telmo, Calle Florida; mom and day leave; bus to Libertador San Martin
Tuesday, May 31:  Visit old friends at the UAP; Bus to Mendoza
Wednesday, June 1:  Mendoza, bodega tour
Thursday, June 2:  Mendoza;  alta montana tour
Friday, June 3:  Mendoza:  city tour and Mendozan supper
Saturday, June 4:  Mendoza;  cabalgata, asado, rock climbing, sickness, jazz
Sunday, June 5:  Buenos Aires:  Centro, Plaza de Mayo, Boca, Cafe Tortoni
Monday, June 6:  Fly out

Friday, May 20
We left Chatt town around 6 PM after a brief return to the house to pick up essential guidebooks.  Dad of coursse was freaking out but we had plenty of time to chat one last time with good people of Tennessee and laugh as dad's pants fell down when he had to take off his belt going through security.  The security people said it happends all the time.

We flew the 45 minutes to Atlanta, I ate some salad and sundried tomato bowtie pasta with Mandy, we exercised a bit walking through our gate, and we finally left around 9:45PM.  On the plane I met an Argentine surfer who had flown all the way to the States only to be told he had to return to Buenos Aires because all Latinos have to have visas.  He thought he'd be okay because he has dual citizenship with Italy, but such was not the case.  We chatted a bit about surfing and travel, then Mandy, with who I was sharing three seats, and I watched Liminey Snicket, took some Lunesta, and actually got some decent sleep.

We awoke for breakfast and shortly thereafter arrived in Buenos Aires around 9AM.  Now the trip was completely in my hands--sort of.  I helped change money and I ordered a remis to take us from Ezeiza to Aeroparque--about a 45 minute drive.  Mandy and I shared a cab, while dad, mom, and Teresa took another.  I think it cost us about 23 pesos.  I felt giddy and more at home on the drive like something familiar was happening once again.  There I was passing River Satdium, el Rio de la Plata, and Tierra Santa, talking with the taxi driver about the two greatest subjects of Argentina: politics and futbol.

We had a little time in Aeroparque (the national airport) so we bought my dad a hat and ourselves some paraguayitos, my absolute favorite Argentine dessert.  It's like a sandwich but with dulce de leche and coconut between dough.  I didn't know someone else made them besides the UAP.

We flew to Salta and thankfully Luis Schuller, our 4x4 tour guide, was there to meet us with a sign that said my name.  We piled in his Galloper and he drove us into town.

At our hotel, Posada del Sol, we paid him, made plans for the next day, dropped offf our things in our rooms (enjoying the cage doors of the elevators), then went outside to check out the city.  We saw a cloistered nun convent, the red towers of San Francisco, and went to the top of a mountain in an enclosed ski lift.  meanwhile we'd also bought our first Argentine food (besides the dulces):  empanadads de queso.  Que rico!  And we bought a poncho for mom because she was freezing as well as some chimichuri (it is what helps make the meat taste so good here.).

At the top of the mountain, we walked around looking at the view, some waterfalls, and bought some cow horn pendants and chokers with unique designs--some designed after prehistoric drawings found in local caves.  I also saw an old man flipping all around bars on a playground.  I was quite amazed at his agility and told him so.  Like the majority of Argentines I know he enjoyed chatting a little bit.  It's great because a person can tell his life story to a complete stranger and they actually seem interested.

During this time, I was wearing a skirt and two tanktops.  Thankfully I aslo had a fleece but the wind and cold still penetrated a bit.  My poor mother was absolutely congelada so we rode back down to the city and found our way back to the hotel.

Argentines eat so late.  The restaurants usually don't even open until 8PM.  Therefore I did some internet or something and then my family and I met to go to Dona Salta, a restuarnat suggested by Luis.  We were the first people there, which was great becasue we got great service.  The restaurant was so awesome and very gaucho-esque with a pulqueria, horno, and waiters dressed like gauchos.  Our waiter opened our water bottles with his facon, or gaucho knife.

We ate so much food and ordered way too much, but we got to experience lots more authentic food: humitas (cheese and corn wrapped in the husk), ensalada completa (lettuce, tomato, carrots, oninons, potatoes, eggs, and beets), pasta (which they can't make properly), papas fritas con ajo y especias (french fries with chimichuri and butter)...so much food and all wonderful (except the pasta).

Mandy, Aunt Teresa, and I were really full so I suggested a walk on the peatonal Alberdi (walking street).  First, however, we bought peanuts for the next day from an old man with a bicycle/steamer/peanut cooker.  He was so nice and even let us take pictures sitting on the bike.

Being as it was Friday night, we had a very entertaining experience.  The street was packed, mostly with young adults.  We walked to the pink cathedral passing shops and streed vendors and performers.  Teresa was happy to see some deaf people sign emphatically to each other and Mandy and I had fun mullet watching and filming.  I'd have here stand somewhere and talk while I filmed the mullet around her.  Once the guys saw me and had a blast waving--if they only knew.  Aunt Teresa was cracking up. I just don't understand how the modern mullet became so popular in Argentina.

Exhausted, we returned to the hotel and slept away after Mandy bought an entire Amanda yerba, mate, and bombilla set.

Saturday, May 21
We woke up at around 6:15 AM, showered in our terto shower (it had a lavender door), packed up to meet Luis and head to the mountains.  Things didn't go quite as planned.  As I was eating my factura, Luis came in to the hotel's restaurant and told me that his 4x4 Galloper's turbo broke down, so he had to get it fixed and we'd have to go with another guide, Osvaldo.  I was sad because from our talkes with Luis, he seemed like a pretty cool dude.  Luis told me, however, that Osvaldo was tranquio and responsible.  So we piled into Os.'s Land Rover.  It was actually a much better vehicle for comfort and view, so that comforted us all.

During our 4x4 trip we traveled to Tastil, San Antonio de las Cobres, Salinas Grandes, Purmamarca, chocolate balls, and finally to Tilcara.  The scenery was all remarkable (typing this from my journal in 2012 I stopped writing this day.  I must have gotten too tired.)

Sunday, May 22
Notes to remember:  breakfast at hotel, shopped in Tilcara, traveled to Humahuaca: Santo unknown indigenous memorial, shopping, eating with futbol, cactus, more colored mountains, crossed Tropic of Capricorn, UNESCO site and pachita, mountain and beef addict; Iruya: hotel pic, cross, futbol, hurt boy at party who accidentally got hit by his sister, church, supper at hotel, exercise, worship
(remembering from 2012...I remember there was a super attractive guy at our hotel.  But then he opened his mouth full of nasty coca leaves.  All us gals were turned off.)

Monday, May 23
We traveled back to Salta from Iruya back across the Tropic of Capricorn.  In Salta, we learned that Salta preserves the old ways and that the gauchos from the area fought with Guemes.  Guemes now has  his own monument and is considered the most famous hero of the North.

We flew back to Buenos Aires, went back to Hotel Victory, met up with Martin, shopped at Calle Florida and Galerias Pacifico, and then ate at my favorite Thai restaurant, Empire Restaurant.

Tuesday, May 24
Travel notes:  early flight to Corrientes, remis to Paso de la Patria, fishing with dad and Mandy-Mandy caught a biggin'!  (all the Brazilian men were super jealous), lunch outside and shopping, meeting all of the Don Julian family (they've had Julio Iglesias stay here!), jogged past dogs and construction, fishing with Teresa, Mandy, and Sisto (our guide), made travel arrangements, took a walk with everyone, made more travel arrangements, supper, traveled to Corrientes with Bob and Andres to get bus tickets.

Fishing terms:
vamos a juntar--Let's reel in
morena anguila--morey eel
ril-reel
cana-rod
cardona-bait
pirana-pirana
enganchar--to hook
gancho--hook
viscoso--slimy
surubi--catfish
coludas--small eels
mamacha--big eel

Fishing report for dorado
1st morning
1.  Mandy: 8 kilos, 5 kilos, 12 kilos
2.  Dad: 5 kilos
afternoon
1.  Teresa: 4 kilos
2.  Mandy: 4 kilos

Don Julian Family
Ananai-hermana
Bibiana-esposa
Irupe--hermana, Horatio, Lautaro, Guillermina
Andres--esposo
Victoria--bebe
Julian--padre
Claudio--driver

Wednesday, May 25
Travel notes:  Don Julian Independence Day!  No fish, Brazialian drunk guy (at night) shopping, night bus to Iguazu with Rio Uruguay with tunnel to driver, comfy and reclined but freezing--I clung to Bob's poncho.

Sporting my Chacos in Chaco

Thursday, May 26
Iguazu, Brazil changed clothes, taxis, pastry, Bird Park with toucans, spoonbills, scarlet ibis, purple gallinule, cardinal, blue jay; hammocks (padre was out of control shopping), Falls, Park: bus, eating bee infested food and Guarani drink, walked to beginning with Mandy, toucans flying over us, people rock climbing, beauty, pictures, armadillo, coati rodents, Bible verse, full circle rainbow, spray at la garganta del diablo, birds flying into falls, elevator at falls, soaked in bus back, Sheraton, supper, explored hotel, internet.

At Iguazu Falls with the family (minus Jess)

Friday, May 27
Travel notes:  Pad's birthday, slept in, yoga on the porch, breakfast with medialuna, shopped on boardwalk and bought woodcarved sconce from woodcarver, train to la garganta del diablo, peaceful walk and view (less people), ecological tour (may have been in relazing float boat) back to hotel with our guide Juan: saw caiman, butterflies, biggest tree unique to area, orquid plants, talk of poisonous snakes and gray black spotted spiders that had just bitten a worker who has to get treatment for a year; lunch-jaguar soy sandwich and banana licuado (Mandy got pear), La Gran Aventura jungle tour and soaking wet boat tour: big rapids, boat driver Luis, San Martin Falls, walk back on Circuito Superior, Dad's b-day supper with music, cake, and champagne (I dipped my tongue.)

Saturday, May 28
Travel notes:  morning walking circuit sidewalks and exploring, found make out spot and climbing, bought edible wood bon bons and slices; flight to Buenos Aires and eating bon bons (they were figgish tasting), dropped off stuff at Hotel Victory, visited Recoleta: Iglesia de la Sra. Pilar--used to be cloistered nuns from the Franciscan order; Recoleta name from the Recoletos monks;  Recoleta Graveyard: free tour with animated Carlos and FUN (BLAST!) translating history and art of graves with graves, cats, Evita, and Peron; ate at ritsy outdoor Italian restaurant--drummer, flag dancers, sax, and wird white statue girl;  shopping in Calle Florida-Zara, CD store;  returened to hotel, called Martin, went out for licuados with Mandy

Interpreting for my knowledgeable friend Carlitos in Recoleta

Sunday, May 29
Travel notes:  breakfast at hotel with Dad and Martin, braided hair, went to San Telmo: bought bronze milk can, 1950s clip-on earrings, watched tango, danced with Osvaldo and bought CD, tango piano sheet music ("I drempt that you loved me") ate at Italian restaurant, walked to plaza where they think Mendoza founded Buenos Aires, met Entre Rios mate seller;  walked to Boca: shopping, statue pics, colored streets, tango and submarinos, traveled back to hotel to drop off stuff, Shopped at Calle Florida: bought Prune purse, found place to buy microcassettes, went to Puerto Madero for Freddo ice cream (dulce de leche con dulce de leche and moka), cheese and onion empanada at Zapi (really oily!), called Summer with Martin and left message, said goodbye, packed

Monday, May 30
Today's activities:  tired to get dad a suit.  Mandy and Bob bought leather coats, I bout video tapes (US $30 each!) and two Patagonia themed Montagne t-shirts;  walked about in my shorts (everyone made comments to me in Calle Florida), lunch at horsebarn restaurant (La Cabellerezca) in Recoleta with the biggest ever mound of vegetables and good foccacia, saw Gardens at Palermo: Rosedal and Japanese Garden, met up with mom and dad-they left, shopping for "Se dice de mi" song and did lots of damage at Zara, pizza at Natacha near our hotel, grabbed luggage, got taxi and were absolutely crammed! The taxi driver said he'd never seen anything like it.  We found our bus at platform 57 (not 67) with 15 minutes to spare, took bus to Libertador San Martin

Tuesday, May 31
Arrived around 4:30AM in Libertador San Martin and pretended we were homeless, tried to sleep on the benches in the terminal for 30-60 minutes.  Hauled suitcases through the UAP campus to Hogar Nuevo, slept on coach and chairs in "el hall" until breakfast at 6:30AM, met Lau (Laura)--very exciting--and ate cereal, banana, and drank hot chocolate with her, talked about medical school and such.  Lau showed us around hospital, we ate at La Vieja Estacion (pastry, coffee, and tea), and she took us her apartment.  We met her Virgin Island's roommate (nteresting story), went back to dorm-Jaque and Monica let us store our luggage in their rooms.

I took a shower, turned in laundry, and hunted for Jeny and Maribel.  Got information from administration, found Jeny randomly in her street--very emotional.  Met Lau and ate at Casablanca: milanesas de soja all around for the gringas!  I went to Jeny's house with Lau:  saw Roald.  She told me about her boyfriend, them getting together and breaking up, and I was cracking up because she told it all so quickly and because she is so sanguine and hilarious with her stories.

I went with Jeny and Lau to meet Mandy and my aunt at the comedor (they were chillin outside in the sun), went inside and found Maribel--again, very emotional.    Lau took Mandy to show her the med school while I sat with Jeny and Marible while Marible finished her lunch--lots of conversation!  She is now an elementary school teacher and going to be a nurse and Jeny's thinking about it too.

I met up with everyone outside, took pictures (Jeny and I dreesed ironically alike in green and brown), Jeny and Mari had to leave, so we went with Lau to the library and dairy barn gym of the UAP (where we were on the gymnastics team together).  We then went to the kiosco for water and throat lausanges (my throat was killing me!) and then ate at SAMAR!!! (moka and menta granizada--my favorites).  It is weirdly in a new location.  We then went to CEAPE for paraguayitos, fruit, Baggio durazno fruit juice (one of my favorites), got luggage, laundry, and then Lau saw us off from the terminal (our driver was old and crotchity--the first sour puss of our trip, but he was totally quiet during the trip).

We drove past the countryside of Entre Rio to Parana, took a 15 hour bus ride to Mendoza:  disco music, crazy three single guys (Julio, Frederico, and Lucas), more disco music, and Usher, sitting on the tray in the tunnel, going under the Rio Parana and filming (they were very interested in our cameras), stopped in Santa Fe and bought crackers, lots of blue hairs with us, played bus bingo (lost) for a bottle of wine, watched The Day After Tomorrow, slept very well in the leather, reclined seats with the aid of Ambien.

The best ice cream on the planet is found in a little village in Argentina. I recommend crema Samar and chocolate de menta. I enjoyed sharing the goodness with Comando and Lau.

Wednesday, June 1
Woke up around 9AM and soon saw the beautiful mountains of Mendoza, booked hotel (bed and breakfast), and touras at infor dest in the bus terminal, went with B&B owner's partner to house, drank tea with owner, Johnny D ("D" for delicious, we were told), decided to forgo Patagonia until next July and stay an extra day in Mendoza, ate quickly at Johnny's recommended Green Apple Vegetarian restaurant, caught our tour van for our bodega tour (we were the only patrons), went to a big, then small bodega--very interesting at first because I got to translate some for the first tour guide and I climbed a massive barrel in the party room.  The sendon place I grew a little bored so I looked at a book with the chofer and learned some new words (i.e. sarmiento) and thought up idioms for Constanza, our main tour guide.  I don't like the taste of wine, but I learned how to tell if it's good or not (grab by stem, swish around, smell, see colors on the napkin (brown is bad!), sip twice sloshing around the first so the mouth finds equilibrium).

We then went to an olive oil factory and tried sundried tomoatoes (tomate dehidrados, oil, and raisins).  We returned to Johnny's 40 year old group jazz band.  AMAZING!  We listened for hours.  Apparently they are very famous and have played all over the world.  They were cute old men.  Four years ago, the clarinet player lost fingers doing wood work, but they modified the instument so he can play again.  He just picket it up again two weeks ago.  He was very depressed, but he has learned to deal with it.  He is still fantastic (but, he told me, "If you could just hear how I was!).  We chatted, listened, bought CD, took pictures, filmed, and then the fellas left.  We walked around town, bought some chocolate and drank submarinos.  I became excited because we planned everything for the rest of the trip!

The New Orleans Jazz Band in Mendoza

Thursday, June 2
We ate breakfast with Johnny Delicious: round flat bread, dulce de leche, jelly, and Argentine La Virginia tea; took tour to alta montana with two Rosario couples and a Brazilian couple (we were the 7th, 8th, and 9th wheels): petroleum plant, dam, foothills, bridge built by San Martin's soldiers, Upsalla--home of THE movie (they filmed 7 years in Tibet in the town and have a sign saying it is the home of "The movie."), rented pants, boots, and culibotines (sleds), bought chocolate, passed Aconcagua, saw colorful mountains, Puente del Inca, had snow fights, saw lines of trucks, cheered in the 14 tunnels to keep away the headless horesman on ruta 7? which goes through all countries all the way up to the USA.  Ate at Los Penitentes ski resort (the season hasn't started), bought poster, went sledding and had snowball fights, yelled Yeah for Charley (the bus driver), drove back and chatted with the Rosario couple--very cute couple and very in love.  Made travel plans, got on internet, went to Green Apple again.

Johnny Delicious' Sayings
1.  "You've got to have a little pepper."  A guy has hot to have a little edge.
2.  "We have a garlic agreement."  How Johnny responded when I asked if he was married to the woman that lives with him.  It basically means that they are so comfortable with each other that they can eat garlica nd still give each other a kiss.
3.  "My dear."  "Babies."  "Rocking" (translation: rock climbing), "playing the game," "funny things."

Friday, June 3
Slept in, LONG breakfast and tea with Johnny, city tour with Johnny: sent postcards, Independence plaza, stained glass, bought plane tickets to Buenos Aires at Andesmar travel agency, bought peanuts and Japones nuts from street vendor, bought awesome leaf mate set from a cute couple (woman makes porcelin flowers)--extremely friendly and funny; taxi back to Bartolome Mitre to drop off things, ate at Green Apple again and Aunt Teresa at the beef restaurant beside it--they let us eat and served us at her restaurant!  unthinkable in the USA or in Europe.

We drove to the municple building to see the view of the city from the top of the building, Plaza Espana  (sold incense, cutlery, magic jacob's ladder/fan), other plazas, SDA church, Cabildo ruins and museum, San Francisco ruins, park and old well-prisoner made lake with sculling club, Rosedal, naked trashy lady statue, message in a bottle; two hour tea time at the house, ATM, internet, shopping at Eva, Mendozan supper with Johnny, Elsa, Sandrino and Sandrino's wife.  They told hilarious stories and I talked with Elsa a lot about her travels and painting.  She showed us some of her paintings and her orange cat.  We watched a video of the jazz band's visit to Lucy Armstrong's house in 1977.

Saturday, June 4
Woke up feeling sore, especially in my back.  Moved around quite slowly, had tea, banana and one small piece of bread...much less than normal; transportation came to pick us up--various outdoorsy looking guys: Andres (driver), el turco, and Sebastian who looks exactly like Che Guevarra.  Typical guys changing radio stations and shaking it down, picked up various other young people, made them stop cause I had to pee so badly, went to the company's base (thatch roofs, pool table, and a kayak hanging up.  "Che" took us to a "puesto" of a gaucho; gaucho demanding but I had to pee again;  got on horses, gaucho's son Eduard "Edu" cutest smile and kid ever!  Liked looking at my videoscreen as I filmed him; rode on dorandilla.  Good horse bud needed the occasional kick;  rode to Virgin Spring;  bloddy dog;  up and down steep foothills of the Andes; incredible views; went through prickly bushes, went back to base; owner drove us back to Johnny's house on Bartolome Mitre street;  chatted the whole way back about travel, oudoor sports, Mendoza, the USA, boys, the future, etc.

Met my "rocking instructor," went to other puesto for asado, tried to climb but weather had torn down rocks so it was unsafe.  The climbing was very sketchy and I ended up being glad I didn't have to climb because I was very sick and struggled the rest of the day.  We flew back to Buenos Aires and traveled once again back to Hotel Victory.

Sunday, June 5
I slept in until around 9:30AM feeling better, but still not awesome and I was spitting up phlegm.  I was sick of bread, so I went to Natche's Cafe next to Hotel Victory for a banana licuado.  I got hooked into a tennis match on the tele, between Spanish Naal and Argentine Puerta.  Nadal had ugly long haired and played in white capris while the Argentine was in orange and was, of course, hot.  I wtached the rest of the first set in Hotel Victory's lobby with the pursor.  The Argentine won the set, so were were happy and I gathered up Mandy and Tia Teresa (found out later he lost).

We visited Plaza de Mayo:  Casa Rosada (chatted with policeman), Cathedral (they were having mass) with the remains of San Martin, ate lunch--very good waiter--scooped out our salads for tia and me.  We went to Manzana de Luces and then went through the cabildo where folks like Mariano Morelos discussed if Argentina should be under the Spanish crown and under the viceroy or if it should be its own nation.

We then returned to Boca: bought Martin's Italian Euro, earrings, and incense burners for friends, walked streets, went back to Hotel Victory and said good-bye to Aunt Teresa.  Mandy and I bought a carryon backpack/suitcase from Leonardo's Fur and Leather and took it back to the hotel.  We went to Cafe Tortoni where intellectuals hung out (Carlos Gardel, Borges, Lorca, Hillary Clinton), had tea and half a personal pizza, bought glasses, watched a Tango show--it was a very proper way to spend our final night in Buenos Aires.

Having a submarino with my collegues in Cafe Tortoni

Monday, June 6
Slept in still feeling sick--still in bed but doing a lot of thinking.  Woke up around 8AM but took a shower an hour or so later.  Slowly packed up everything, tried on Mandy's coat at Leonardo's (more adjustments), called Martin from locutorio and ate luch with him at Empire Restaurant and stopped by his school.  Went to Teatro Colon.  We had time to kill so we looked at one of the dumbest buildings in Buenos Aires (chopped off plans, hallways to nowhere) and heard about the Engineering College (Engineer of building committed suicide because he made miscalculation and the ceiling was too heavy;  had to take a lot of the roofing out), it rained, we went to el Ateneo book store that used to be a theatre (people read in the box seats or drink coffee on the stage/cafe); took Teatro Colon tour; went to Calle Florida for Dromo (bought Diego Torres CD) and Zara (Mandy bought pants while Martin and I chatted), saw Burger King that probably was an old mansion: crown molding, ceiling carvings, paintings, etc.  Half cool, half strange, half disturbing...that's too many halves.  Mandy and I were dying and dying of thirst so we went to the pharmacy for meds and the jugoloso for watery licuados.  Then we made a trip to Prune for wallets and rushed back with fifteen minutes till our remis was supposed to come to take us to the airport.  Martin bought my walled while we rushed.  We said our good-byes to the Hotel guys and Martin (gave him his Italy coin) and chatted until we had to leave.

At the airport migraciones found a stamp that I frantically couldn't find (phew!), we checked in, bought dad's hat, bought baguettes, and our last peach licuados.  We felw over Entre Rios and I was very sad leaving and wondering what the North American South will bring.  I still have the same questions about my future that I had before this trip.  But life is always a trip.  So many things and people pass by.  The important thing is to be persistent and not forget--not just the events, but the people, conversations, and laughter.  An evening in the parlor with Johnny's band is more spectacular then a tour of Teatro Colon.  I often forget, but it's true, and so hard to leave those like Marin, Sandro, Lau, Jeny, and Maribel.  All of which I'd never been friends if I hadn't come to Argentina.  So thank you, Father.  Please guide me onward.