June 22 Ohrid
As we sat and enjoyed the early morning sun and the view of tranquil Lake Ohrid, we decided to stay another night in The town. This allowed us to do our laundry and give us a break from traveling.
We had two pieces of leftover pizza and a couple bananas we had bought on the bus, so after consuming them we went directly to the town's sites from our apartment. We began with a Byzantine church and an icon museum, saw a Roman theater, and then hiked up the road towards the city top fortress. We sat at a cafe and drank coffee and juice and ate packaged croissants and a local dessert before exploring the fortress walls. We climbed very narrow stairs to the top of the ramparts, but the views of the town and lake were expansive.
Hiking down from the fortress we reached a complex with ruins and mosaics from an old basilica and a Byzantine style church restored in 2002. We then continued down the mountain until we reached Macedonia's most photographed Byzantine church. It is tiny and does not look very different from other Orthodox churches, but its perch on a rocky point is what makes it spectacular. After we visited the town's largest basilica and ate lunch in the center, we relaxed and swam at Potspes beach and had a great view of the church.
We lazed about at Potspes until late afternoon and then returned to our apartment to do some internet research for the upcoming legs of our trip. I was not super successful finding accurate transportation information. Thankfully our hosts, whose apartment was below us, invited us for coffee and local cherries and not only provided us with good conversation, but found us sound information. They also offered to take us to the bus station in the morning. They really were super hosts.
Darren was getting hungry, so we said goodnight to our hosts and rambled the main shopping street past the famous cerna tree--it is hugely wide and has a hole where one can walk through it--and found a restaurant for a local salad, baked ziti, and, of course, a Euro Cup game. We had eaten around 10pm, so we were ready to sleep after we returned to the apartment. Unfortunately, Ohrid likes its clubs and loud music, but eventually we drifted to dreamland.
Tirana
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June 21 Tirana and bus to Ohrid, Macedonia
Our day began with breakfast at the hotel, visiting a new orthodox basilica, and then finding bus tickets to Struga, Macedonia at a travel agency suggested by our hotel workers located in the main square. The bus wasn't leaving until 4 PM, so we had time to explore the city's main sites. First, we took photos with the huge Skanderburg statue, a statue from communism, went into a mosque that was not destroyed during communism, and then the history museum. The museum covered everything including the Stone Age, Bronze Age, Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Skanderburg's resistance to the Ottomans, the Ottomans, the fight for independence and World War I, World War II and the rise of communism, and finally the terrors of communism. They had a stamp collection and Mother Theresa exhibit on the way out to lighten the mood somewhat.
We were tired and hungry after all the history, so we consumed sandwiches beside the old Justinian castle walls before visiting the free National Art Museum. It featured art starting from the era of King Zog, and continued with communist painters and then onto blatant massive propaganda communist paintings from the 1960s to the '80s. Finally there was an exhibit about Albania city planning and ideas from the past and present.
Exiting the museum, we walked to an old cobblestone bridge and then over to the city's central street to see the crumbling pyramid from Hoxer's communist days, the parliament building, and a newish exhibit in a park close to where Hoxer and other communist officials lived. In it is a donated piece of the Berlin Wall, a portion of tunnel from an Albanian work camp, and an in situ concrete bunker that guarded this area of communist era Tirana.
We saw more bunkers in the park as we rambled once again through the Blloko neighborhood. We bought ice cream, then picked up our bags at our hotel before heading back to the travel agency to get our bus.
The bus ride from Tirana to Struga was circuitous moving west before going east stopping to pick travelers up in Durres. However, the ride was beautiful and windy climbing over mountain passes and running along a river that Darren kept comparing to the Russian River. We also had fun spotting enormously tall hay bails and the ubiquitous Albanian concrete bunkers. We saw our largest grouping of the latter just before the top of the pass before the Macedonian border.
I always tend to worry when crossing borders, just because officials can be crotchety and there is the possibility that the process can take a long time, but everything was fine and we gained new passport stamps. Immediately we descended into a forest, new construction houses, and not too long after we were dropped off on the side of the road and pointed in the direction of Struga, kind of in the Albanian style. Darren and I found a taxi in town and took it fifteen minutes high up some cobblestone streets--this seems to be a reoccurring theme--to our place in Ohrid. And, once again, we were introduced by our house hosts to a great apartment with a terrace with a great view of the city, and this time also over the massive Lake Ohrid.
We settled in and walked two minutes down our hill to town for a pizza supper, Eurocup soccer, and a stroll along the lake and along the shopping pedestrian street. I was tired from all our four plus hour bus ride and it was past 11PM, so we returned to sleep after another busy day.
Our day began with breakfast at the hotel, visiting a new orthodox basilica, and then finding bus tickets to Struga, Macedonia at a travel agency suggested by our hotel workers located in the main square. The bus wasn't leaving until 4 PM, so we had time to explore the city's main sites. First, we took photos with the huge Skanderburg statue, a statue from communism, went into a mosque that was not destroyed during communism, and then the history museum. The museum covered everything including the Stone Age, Bronze Age, Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Skanderburg's resistance to the Ottomans, the Ottomans, the fight for independence and World War I, World War II and the rise of communism, and finally the terrors of communism. They had a stamp collection and Mother Theresa exhibit on the way out to lighten the mood somewhat.
We were tired and hungry after all the history, so we consumed sandwiches beside the old Justinian castle walls before visiting the free National Art Museum. It featured art starting from the era of King Zog, and continued with communist painters and then onto blatant massive propaganda communist paintings from the 1960s to the '80s. Finally there was an exhibit about Albania city planning and ideas from the past and present.
Exiting the museum, we walked to an old cobblestone bridge and then over to the city's central street to see the crumbling pyramid from Hoxer's communist days, the parliament building, and a newish exhibit in a park close to where Hoxer and other communist officials lived. In it is a donated piece of the Berlin Wall, a portion of tunnel from an Albanian work camp, and an in situ concrete bunker that guarded this area of communist era Tirana.
We saw more bunkers in the park as we rambled once again through the Blloko neighborhood. We bought ice cream, then picked up our bags at our hotel before heading back to the travel agency to get our bus.
The bus ride from Tirana to Struga was circuitous moving west before going east stopping to pick travelers up in Durres. However, the ride was beautiful and windy climbing over mountain passes and running along a river that Darren kept comparing to the Russian River. We also had fun spotting enormously tall hay bails and the ubiquitous Albanian concrete bunkers. We saw our largest grouping of the latter just before the top of the pass before the Macedonian border.
I always tend to worry when crossing borders, just because officials can be crotchety and there is the possibility that the process can take a long time, but everything was fine and we gained new passport stamps. Immediately we descended into a forest, new construction houses, and not too long after we were dropped off on the side of the road and pointed in the direction of Struga, kind of in the Albanian style. Darren and I found a taxi in town and took it fifteen minutes high up some cobblestone streets--this seems to be a reoccurring theme--to our place in Ohrid. And, once again, we were introduced by our house hosts to a great apartment with a terrace with a great view of the city, and this time also over the massive Lake Ohrid.
We settled in and walked two minutes down our hill to town for a pizza supper, Eurocup soccer, and a stroll along the lake and along the shopping pedestrian street. I was tired from all our four plus hour bus ride and it was past 11PM, so we returned to sleep after another busy day.
Berat
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June 20 Berat and Tirana
Berat is known as the city of a thousand windows; however, it is lacking in breakfast cafes. Darren and I roamed the entire walking street and some side streets, but all we could finally find was a grocery store with a massive prepackaged croissant, juice, and Istanbul sandwich chocolate cookies. In awe we walked by the squares mosques and Orthodox Church then took a taxi up the extremely steep hill to the castle Kala neighborhood.
We paid 100 leke or so to enter the area, but interestingly it has quite a few people that live within its walls. Some called out to us to buy their local jams or give us a tour. We declined and found the Onufri Museum. My guidebook said it would be closed on Mondays, but joyfully it was open. Onufri is Alabania's most famous icon painter, and although I find this type of art good for glancing and walking by at a moderate pace (saints, holy family, monsters, martyrs, repeat), I did find his depth of colors more interesting than other typical icons. Due to wanting to avoid the semblance of having any graven images, the Orthodox Church does not have much in the way of statues in its churches. Instead they have the icons--which sometimes pilgrims kiss, frescoes, a couple thrones for the king and priest, some lamps, mosaics, and the iconostasis. The Onufri Museum is located in an old basilica and its iconostasis may the most impressive I have seen. It is elaborately carved and covered in gold. Also interesting was the ability to walk behind it to the holy place and see the covered altar. The covering always stays on the altar to represent the cloth Jesus was covered in after the crucifixion. Behind there is usually the second throne for the high clergy but it was not present in this church.
Outside the museum we wandered around looking for more camouflaged churches, the old walls, a remnant tower from a red mosque, ruins of a white mosque, the trash splattered cistern, the Acropolis, and finally some shade for a snack and water.
Google maps revealed another dirt trail that would take us directly towards town. It was definitely a locals trail and we could have avoided the entrance fee of we had entered through it. We walked down it and over to the ethnographic museum. It was also stated to be closed on Mondays in my book, but once again it was wrong and we went inside. The old house was similar to those we had seen in Gjirokastra, but it included some local costumes, looms, farm equipment, and had a scary bat that occasionally flew around our heads. We relaxed on the tranquil terrace of the second floor--definitely our favorite area of these old houses (I think from the 1800s). I could understand how the raised platforms were for VIPs.
The fortress and museums were the main things I really wanted to see and we had already cruised the main pedestrian street several times. Therefore it was time to move on. We walked back to our house with its great views of the city and let our host know we wanted to take the next bus available to Tirana, the capital of Albania. Our host made us Turkish coffee, I booked our next hotel, and we all chilled on the porch until it was time for him to drive us to the bus station a little bit out of the main town. On the way he pointed out where he had watched the epic and historical game last night.
We rode the bus arriving with plenty of daylight and walked to the center chatting with an Australian girl who had been traveling in Europe for a few months and had been to Macedonia. I asked her about our travels until we separated and Darren and I kept walking to the center of the city. We found wifi, cappuccinos, and croissants at the Opera's cafe and let our Tirana host know we were in town. He picked us up with his friend after about a half hour. He drove us around town a little and let us know that the hotel we booked was being renovated, so we would actually be staying at a different location. The hotel was still central and crazily had a circular bed. The owner was super friendly and after Darren and I relaxed in our room and FaceTimed my sister Jessica, he joined us outside the hotel for free coffee and to talk until we were ready for supper. He suggested Era, which I had remembered reading about in my guidebook. Darren and I followed my phone across the river to the hip Blloko area of the city and found the restaurant. Darren tried a local dish made of goat and yogurt.
After our meal, we walked and people watched the neighborhood before returning to our hotel to watch a little of the night's Euro Cup game before sleep.
Berat is known as the city of a thousand windows; however, it is lacking in breakfast cafes. Darren and I roamed the entire walking street and some side streets, but all we could finally find was a grocery store with a massive prepackaged croissant, juice, and Istanbul sandwich chocolate cookies. In awe we walked by the squares mosques and Orthodox Church then took a taxi up the extremely steep hill to the castle Kala neighborhood.
We paid 100 leke or so to enter the area, but interestingly it has quite a few people that live within its walls. Some called out to us to buy their local jams or give us a tour. We declined and found the Onufri Museum. My guidebook said it would be closed on Mondays, but joyfully it was open. Onufri is Alabania's most famous icon painter, and although I find this type of art good for glancing and walking by at a moderate pace (saints, holy family, monsters, martyrs, repeat), I did find his depth of colors more interesting than other typical icons. Due to wanting to avoid the semblance of having any graven images, the Orthodox Church does not have much in the way of statues in its churches. Instead they have the icons--which sometimes pilgrims kiss, frescoes, a couple thrones for the king and priest, some lamps, mosaics, and the iconostasis. The Onufri Museum is located in an old basilica and its iconostasis may the most impressive I have seen. It is elaborately carved and covered in gold. Also interesting was the ability to walk behind it to the holy place and see the covered altar. The covering always stays on the altar to represent the cloth Jesus was covered in after the crucifixion. Behind there is usually the second throne for the high clergy but it was not present in this church.
Outside the museum we wandered around looking for more camouflaged churches, the old walls, a remnant tower from a red mosque, ruins of a white mosque, the trash splattered cistern, the Acropolis, and finally some shade for a snack and water.
Google maps revealed another dirt trail that would take us directly towards town. It was definitely a locals trail and we could have avoided the entrance fee of we had entered through it. We walked down it and over to the ethnographic museum. It was also stated to be closed on Mondays in my book, but once again it was wrong and we went inside. The old house was similar to those we had seen in Gjirokastra, but it included some local costumes, looms, farm equipment, and had a scary bat that occasionally flew around our heads. We relaxed on the tranquil terrace of the second floor--definitely our favorite area of these old houses (I think from the 1800s). I could understand how the raised platforms were for VIPs.
The fortress and museums were the main things I really wanted to see and we had already cruised the main pedestrian street several times. Therefore it was time to move on. We walked back to our house with its great views of the city and let our host know we wanted to take the next bus available to Tirana, the capital of Albania. Our host made us Turkish coffee, I booked our next hotel, and we all chilled on the porch until it was time for him to drive us to the bus station a little bit out of the main town. On the way he pointed out where he had watched the epic and historical game last night.
We rode the bus arriving with plenty of daylight and walked to the center chatting with an Australian girl who had been traveling in Europe for a few months and had been to Macedonia. I asked her about our travels until we separated and Darren and I kept walking to the center of the city. We found wifi, cappuccinos, and croissants at the Opera's cafe and let our Tirana host know we were in town. He picked us up with his friend after about a half hour. He drove us around town a little and let us know that the hotel we booked was being renovated, so we would actually be staying at a different location. The hotel was still central and crazily had a circular bed. The owner was super friendly and after Darren and I relaxed in our room and FaceTimed my sister Jessica, he joined us outside the hotel for free coffee and to talk until we were ready for supper. He suggested Era, which I had remembered reading about in my guidebook. Darren and I followed my phone across the river to the hip Blloko area of the city and found the restaurant. Darren tried a local dish made of goat and yogurt.
After our meal, we walked and people watched the neighborhood before returning to our hotel to watch a little of the night's Euro Cup game before sleep.
Gjirokastra
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June 19, Gjirokastra and travel to Berat
After a scrumptious and huge breakfast by our hotel, we explored the Gjirokastra castle with its tall ceilings and endless arches, a long corridor with guns from WW1 Italy and Germany, a shot down U. S. possible spy plane from the 1950s, a city history museum and arms museum, and a huge stage for their folklore festival. We then visited a couple of the classic Ottoman homes that have been preserved and are still owned by their original families after they were given back to them after communism ended. The first was the Zekate house. We paid our two hundred leke and then were free to roam about on our own and take photos. The top floor was most impressive with its open terrace and colorful fresco walled room.
In between homes we saw an ethnographic museum with rooms set up with items that were used in houses back in the 1800s.
The last home was the Skellic home and we were able to hop in on a fabulous tour about how the house functioned for serving guests, using the toilets and hammams, cooking coffee and food, keeping women out of sight of strangers, and how ceremonies were performed such as weddings in the home. The final room was also covered in frescos with a lot of pomegranate themed aspects. As we say on the corn husk and woolen benches the owner spoke to us about the specifics of the room.
We then walked down the cobblestone streets to the new part of the city to find a bus to Berat. We found that only one leaves at 10:40AM, but we were able to get tickets to a town closer to Berat, but actually north of it. When they let us off we did not see any other buses or furgons, but an old gentleman offered us a ride as he was waiting to pick up a friend or his wife and was heading to Berat anyways. I think he joked with her on the way that he had become in impromptu taxi cab. I think he would have driven us for free but we asked him a price. He charged us less than four bucks for a thirty minute ride.
He let us off at the main square and once again thanks to wifi at a cafe we could communicate with our next host and use google maps to find our way. Our host spoke very good English and let us know about the activities in the area. It was already evening, so all we did was relax on our amazing covered porch overlooking the city and the river dividing in two. We also FaceTimed my parents, and then crossed over the river to eat at a recommended restaurant overlooking the city of a thousand windows. We were almost the only patrons in the restaurant and tried to guess why.
Our question was answered when we decided to talk a short walk on the main pedestrian only drag of the city. There we found everyone--well, guys at least--sitting in front of massive screens. We found out that Albania was playing Romania in the European Cup. We found seats at one of the many cafes stuffed with people and joined in on the excitement. We were lucky to watch Albania score a goal and the Albanians go nuts all around us. We saw the entire first half in the cafe, than watched the second in our house. No one ended up scoring any more points and Albania won their first major tournament game in history. It was a big deal and fireworks, chanting, screaming, and honking horns went on for a good hour after the end of the game. Thankfully we were able to get some sleep.
After a scrumptious and huge breakfast by our hotel, we explored the Gjirokastra castle with its tall ceilings and endless arches, a long corridor with guns from WW1 Italy and Germany, a shot down U. S. possible spy plane from the 1950s, a city history museum and arms museum, and a huge stage for their folklore festival. We then visited a couple of the classic Ottoman homes that have been preserved and are still owned by their original families after they were given back to them after communism ended. The first was the Zekate house. We paid our two hundred leke and then were free to roam about on our own and take photos. The top floor was most impressive with its open terrace and colorful fresco walled room.
In between homes we saw an ethnographic museum with rooms set up with items that were used in houses back in the 1800s.
The last home was the Skellic home and we were able to hop in on a fabulous tour about how the house functioned for serving guests, using the toilets and hammams, cooking coffee and food, keeping women out of sight of strangers, and how ceremonies were performed such as weddings in the home. The final room was also covered in frescos with a lot of pomegranate themed aspects. As we say on the corn husk and woolen benches the owner spoke to us about the specifics of the room.
We then walked down the cobblestone streets to the new part of the city to find a bus to Berat. We found that only one leaves at 10:40AM, but we were able to get tickets to a town closer to Berat, but actually north of it. When they let us off we did not see any other buses or furgons, but an old gentleman offered us a ride as he was waiting to pick up a friend or his wife and was heading to Berat anyways. I think he joked with her on the way that he had become in impromptu taxi cab. I think he would have driven us for free but we asked him a price. He charged us less than four bucks for a thirty minute ride.
He let us off at the main square and once again thanks to wifi at a cafe we could communicate with our next host and use google maps to find our way. Our host spoke very good English and let us know about the activities in the area. It was already evening, so all we did was relax on our amazing covered porch overlooking the city and the river dividing in two. We also FaceTimed my parents, and then crossed over the river to eat at a recommended restaurant overlooking the city of a thousand windows. We were almost the only patrons in the restaurant and tried to guess why.
Our question was answered when we decided to talk a short walk on the main pedestrian only drag of the city. There we found everyone--well, guys at least--sitting in front of massive screens. We found out that Albania was playing Romania in the European Cup. We found seats at one of the many cafes stuffed with people and joined in on the excitement. We were lucky to watch Albania score a goal and the Albanians go nuts all around us. We saw the entire first half in the cafe, than watched the second in our house. No one ended up scoring any more points and Albania won their first major tournament game in history. It was a big deal and fireworks, chanting, screaming, and honking horns went on for a good hour after the end of the game. Thankfully we were able to get some sleep.
On to Albania
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June 18, Saranda, Butrint, blue eye spring, Gjirokastra
Our bus from Benitses to Corfu town left town nice and early at 7AM. The hotel had left us some breakfast cakes outside our studio, but it was crawling with ants so we discarded them promptly and bought fresh pastries at the harbor after walking to the flying dolphin ticket office and the international port.
On board the dolphin, we enjoyed a quick thirty minute almost empty ride to Saranda, Albania. By 10:30AM we arrived in Butrint via a 15 euro taxi ride. The air was already scorching hot, but thankfully the loop of ancient ruins are mostly sheltered by trees and bordered by a peaceful fish filled lake. The museum inside was nicely laid out and not too overwhelming. It was interesting to see pictures and items just recently excavated, one statue as recently as 2005.
After finishing our historical loop, we happened to arrive to the entrance just on time to catch the bus back to Saranda. This was fortuitous because the next one wouldn't have been for another two hours. From the center of Saranda we almost immediately found a furgon van to take us to the turn off for the blue eye spring on its way to Gjirokastra. We sat in the back of the van to keep an eye on our things, but all was well except for watching a passenger blatantly throw his water bottle out a window.
We were dumped off at a sign for the blue eye spring and walked through even more intense sunlight two or three kilometers that felt like forever. At one point at a dam we passed by guys wanting money to the spring even though we still had a ways to go. Finally we did arrive to the impossibly blue and green waters and a restaurant. We first consumed salad and Darren got trout with all the skin and head still attached to it. He covered the latter with a piece of lettuce.
Once we were satiated, we walked around a found the main blue eye of the blue eye spring after encountering a hotel where we bought ice cream. At the spring were about six Scottish guys contemplating the plunge about the same time as Darren and I. We all faced the ten degree Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit) water and jumped in from the shore and from in overlook. All the fellas were super impressed with Darren because he did a beautiful dive and a back flip off the the railing. They said that if they had only waited a couple hours they would have been the cool ones at the spring, but that Darren had won the competition. They even congratulated him.
The blue eye was vivid and no one has yet to discover how deep it is, even after sending down SCUBA divers. It also was incredibly refreshing. The Scots kept commenting that they couldn't believe we were the only ones to get in the water of all the hundred or so tourists that strolled by when we were there. I couldn't believe it either. I jumped in it for a third time to prepare for the walk back to the Saranda Gjirokastra junction. However, there was more shade as we ambled back, and then a Danish couple offered us a ride to the main road.
Now came the part of the trip with which I had trepidation. Was a bus or furgon going to drive by and pick us up? Well, after about ten minutes a Nestle ice cream truck stopped and we jumped in the front seats. The driver didn't speak any English but we were able to communicate that we all wanted to travel to the same town. It was probably the sketchiest thing we have done so far on this trip, but the young driver seemed friendly albeit a little scary as far as driving was concerned. He took off his seatbelt anytime he wasn't in a town, and he played with his phone and smoked all along the windy Albanian mountain roads.
He let us off by the bus stop and the bottom of the mountain that makes up Gjirokastra. I hadn't made any lodging arrangements, but our Danish friends had given us a recommendation of a place they had just stayed at the previous night. We entered a coffee shop with wifi near our drop off point and I immediately found the place online and booked it for only 23 euros a night including breakfast. Thank you Danish folks!
We took a taxi up the steep cobblestone road up, up, up almost reaching the city's hilltop castle. The driver didn't know the hotel, nor did anyone he asked along the road, but I had loaded the place on google maps and guided him. The age of wifi and google maps is amazing.
Our hotel was even more amazing. It was in an old renovated mini castle with only two rooms, but we were the only guests. The sitting room had brightly colored red rugs and old antiques and our room had a wooden door with a metal handle. And of course the walls were stone and the ceilings were super high. The room had the best ambiance and was the cheapest place we have stayed at so far.
I had found our owner on the floor above where he and his family lives. He explained everything and gave us delicious juice to drink. Darren and I relaxed, took showers, FaceTimed his family, chatted with the owner's young son and then finally walked down into the heart of the old town for supper. Along the way we passed the bazaar with its souvenir stalls, barbers, restaurants and other small shops. We stopped at a recommended family run restaurant with classic Albanian food and so we of course ordered only Albanian dishes. We had a salad, bread, and some sort of fried vegetable balls and minty rice balls. We were stuffed, but the owner brought us out a dish of free cherries for dessert. They were delicious.
After supper we walked to a huge cafe overlooking the city and its slate roofed homes spilling down the mountain side. Then we wandered again through the bazaar up to a street passing a mysterious and dark tunnel at the base of the castle. We walked quite a ways until it took us to the other side of the mountain. Amazingly Google maps showed us a goat path that we took past, well, goats back up to the street of our castle hotel. We later learned that this tunnel had been built during communism and was supposed to be able to handle all types of bombing.
Our bus from Benitses to Corfu town left town nice and early at 7AM. The hotel had left us some breakfast cakes outside our studio, but it was crawling with ants so we discarded them promptly and bought fresh pastries at the harbor after walking to the flying dolphin ticket office and the international port.
On board the dolphin, we enjoyed a quick thirty minute almost empty ride to Saranda, Albania. By 10:30AM we arrived in Butrint via a 15 euro taxi ride. The air was already scorching hot, but thankfully the loop of ancient ruins are mostly sheltered by trees and bordered by a peaceful fish filled lake. The museum inside was nicely laid out and not too overwhelming. It was interesting to see pictures and items just recently excavated, one statue as recently as 2005.
After finishing our historical loop, we happened to arrive to the entrance just on time to catch the bus back to Saranda. This was fortuitous because the next one wouldn't have been for another two hours. From the center of Saranda we almost immediately found a furgon van to take us to the turn off for the blue eye spring on its way to Gjirokastra. We sat in the back of the van to keep an eye on our things, but all was well except for watching a passenger blatantly throw his water bottle out a window.
We were dumped off at a sign for the blue eye spring and walked through even more intense sunlight two or three kilometers that felt like forever. At one point at a dam we passed by guys wanting money to the spring even though we still had a ways to go. Finally we did arrive to the impossibly blue and green waters and a restaurant. We first consumed salad and Darren got trout with all the skin and head still attached to it. He covered the latter with a piece of lettuce.
Once we were satiated, we walked around a found the main blue eye of the blue eye spring after encountering a hotel where we bought ice cream. At the spring were about six Scottish guys contemplating the plunge about the same time as Darren and I. We all faced the ten degree Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit) water and jumped in from the shore and from in overlook. All the fellas were super impressed with Darren because he did a beautiful dive and a back flip off the the railing. They said that if they had only waited a couple hours they would have been the cool ones at the spring, but that Darren had won the competition. They even congratulated him.
The blue eye was vivid and no one has yet to discover how deep it is, even after sending down SCUBA divers. It also was incredibly refreshing. The Scots kept commenting that they couldn't believe we were the only ones to get in the water of all the hundred or so tourists that strolled by when we were there. I couldn't believe it either. I jumped in it for a third time to prepare for the walk back to the Saranda Gjirokastra junction. However, there was more shade as we ambled back, and then a Danish couple offered us a ride to the main road.
Now came the part of the trip with which I had trepidation. Was a bus or furgon going to drive by and pick us up? Well, after about ten minutes a Nestle ice cream truck stopped and we jumped in the front seats. The driver didn't speak any English but we were able to communicate that we all wanted to travel to the same town. It was probably the sketchiest thing we have done so far on this trip, but the young driver seemed friendly albeit a little scary as far as driving was concerned. He took off his seatbelt anytime he wasn't in a town, and he played with his phone and smoked all along the windy Albanian mountain roads.
He let us off by the bus stop and the bottom of the mountain that makes up Gjirokastra. I hadn't made any lodging arrangements, but our Danish friends had given us a recommendation of a place they had just stayed at the previous night. We entered a coffee shop with wifi near our drop off point and I immediately found the place online and booked it for only 23 euros a night including breakfast. Thank you Danish folks!
We took a taxi up the steep cobblestone road up, up, up almost reaching the city's hilltop castle. The driver didn't know the hotel, nor did anyone he asked along the road, but I had loaded the place on google maps and guided him. The age of wifi and google maps is amazing.
Our hotel was even more amazing. It was in an old renovated mini castle with only two rooms, but we were the only guests. The sitting room had brightly colored red rugs and old antiques and our room had a wooden door with a metal handle. And of course the walls were stone and the ceilings were super high. The room had the best ambiance and was the cheapest place we have stayed at so far.
I had found our owner on the floor above where he and his family lives. He explained everything and gave us delicious juice to drink. Darren and I relaxed, took showers, FaceTimed his family, chatted with the owner's young son and then finally walked down into the heart of the old town for supper. Along the way we passed the bazaar with its souvenir stalls, barbers, restaurants and other small shops. We stopped at a recommended family run restaurant with classic Albanian food and so we of course ordered only Albanian dishes. We had a salad, bread, and some sort of fried vegetable balls and minty rice balls. We were stuffed, but the owner brought us out a dish of free cherries for dessert. They were delicious.
After supper we walked to a huge cafe overlooking the city and its slate roofed homes spilling down the mountain side. Then we wandered again through the bazaar up to a street passing a mysterious and dark tunnel at the base of the castle. We walked quite a ways until it took us to the other side of the mountain. Amazingly Google maps showed us a goat path that we took past, well, goats back up to the street of our castle hotel. We later learned that this tunnel had been built during communism and was supposed to be able to handle all types of bombing.
Corfu
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June 17, Corfu
We took two buses and a ferry to make our way to Corfu, an Ionian island off the west coast of mainland Greece. We arrived in the afternoon, but there was still daylight, so we decided to explore. I didn't know anything about the place, and I was sick of walking and it was super hot again, so the hop on, hop off lady convinced us to take the tour quite easily. We cruised around the island learning about Corfu's many musicians (natives wrote the Greek national anthem and the olympics theme song) its impregnable fortresses, and about a girl martyr who was killed by word from her pagan father because she secretly became a baptized Christian.
We hopped off at the end of the cannon area to take a look at mouse island. There we bought some drinks and ice cream to try to cool ourselves down and the shop keeper said we should return to the place to get our bus to Benitses to cut down on bus time. So we circled the rest of the old town seeing the massive old and new fortresses and hopping off again to wander briefly the narrow walking streets and get some supper. It was already late afternoon, so we took the bus back to the cannon area, looked in a small Orthodox Church on the water, and walked a thin strip of concrete across water to another more southerly area of town.
We found where we were supposed to get the bus, but it seemed that we had missed it by three minutes and another would not come for an hour and 45 minutes. We reluctantly found a cab who took us for ten euros ten minutes or so to our hotel studio. The workers had not communicated with me well before we arrived and seemed kind of frenetic and busy. It was probably the worst housing experience we have had so far, but the folks seemed friendly and with good intentions. And our studio was in close proximity to little town and the beach. After dropping off our stuff, we strolled across the road to the rocky beach, poached some beach chairs, and enjoyed the evening watching the water, people swimming, geese, and a cat chasing a mouse.
When we finally left the beach we strolled to the little town and happened upon a hotel advertising a free Greek traditional dance show. We decided to check it out. Unfortunately we waited for thirty minutes or so for it to start, and by the middle of it, even though the dancers had fun costumes and moves, we were ready to head back to our studio and sleep.
We took two buses and a ferry to make our way to Corfu, an Ionian island off the west coast of mainland Greece. We arrived in the afternoon, but there was still daylight, so we decided to explore. I didn't know anything about the place, and I was sick of walking and it was super hot again, so the hop on, hop off lady convinced us to take the tour quite easily. We cruised around the island learning about Corfu's many musicians (natives wrote the Greek national anthem and the olympics theme song) its impregnable fortresses, and about a girl martyr who was killed by word from her pagan father because she secretly became a baptized Christian.
We hopped off at the end of the cannon area to take a look at mouse island. There we bought some drinks and ice cream to try to cool ourselves down and the shop keeper said we should return to the place to get our bus to Benitses to cut down on bus time. So we circled the rest of the old town seeing the massive old and new fortresses and hopping off again to wander briefly the narrow walking streets and get some supper. It was already late afternoon, so we took the bus back to the cannon area, looked in a small Orthodox Church on the water, and walked a thin strip of concrete across water to another more southerly area of town.
We found where we were supposed to get the bus, but it seemed that we had missed it by three minutes and another would not come for an hour and 45 minutes. We reluctantly found a cab who took us for ten euros ten minutes or so to our hotel studio. The workers had not communicated with me well before we arrived and seemed kind of frenetic and busy. It was probably the worst housing experience we have had so far, but the folks seemed friendly and with good intentions. And our studio was in close proximity to little town and the beach. After dropping off our stuff, we strolled across the road to the rocky beach, poached some beach chairs, and enjoyed the evening watching the water, people swimming, geese, and a cat chasing a mouse.
When we finally left the beach we strolled to the little town and happened upon a hotel advertising a free Greek traditional dance show. We decided to check it out. Unfortunately we waited for thirty minutes or so for it to start, and by the middle of it, even though the dancers had fun costumes and moves, we were ready to head back to our studio and sleep.
Mount Olympus and Monastery Mahem in Meteora
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June 15 and 16. Mount Olympus and Meteora
We were some of the first in our refuge to awaken, and we did not see anyone but one or two people as we voyaged out onto the trail after our breakfast. The first portion of the route was an easy mostly flat skirting of Stefanie peak dotted with a couple Balkan chamois. We also ran into a fella who was super lost and thought Mystikas, the highest point on Mount Olympus, was some little hill behind our refuge. We explained that he was wrong and that he could follow us. We picked up another lost gal at the turn off up the class 3 scramble.
The scrambling was fun and the only real danger was loose rocks which we simply took caution to not knock any off onto the gal and guy below us. Slowly we climbed our way up to the top of Mystikas to enjoy the sea and rocky views and to pose by the Grecian flag amongst flowing prayer flags.
We decided to scramble back down the class three rocks and then hike on new territory to Prionia. Along the way we passed a board of teenagers being guided, more wildflowers and bejeweled horses, and a heap of switchbacks.
When we reached Prionia, we had the decision to hike another five miles or catch a ride. A fella we had hiked a bit with had a car and offered us a ride, so we took advantage. It was a good thing we did because he is an Israeli guide who was not only interesting to chat with, but also knew about a Mount Olympus museum that had just opened at the bottom of the hill just a couple days prior. The three of us drove down from the trailhead to the museum and admired it's fabulous layout, descriptions, and photos.
He dropped us off at the bottom of town and we looked for bus information. We could not find anything, so we just returned to our house to pick up our bags. The people we were staying with were so incredibly nice. They looked up the train schedule and gave us espresso and a local cherry jam to consume. It was delicious and they had made it themselves. On top of everything, they then drove us the five kilometers back to the train station for our trip to Kalambaka. They were definitely some of the best hosts I have ever had.
Our train was on strike, but thankfully still running. We just had to switch trains in Larissa and keep going. I had reserved us a room at the Tsilei Hotel in Kaseraki which I discovered was just two kilometers from Kalambaki thanks to a visit it a coffee/bar full of men and wifi. The scenery with its massive pinnacles was so beautiful, we decided to just walk to our hotel to better take them in and save some money. The walk was gloriously scenic and we reached our hotel in time to get some more great views from our balcony. We settled in, did a loop around Kastraki, then found a taverna near our hotel for local Greek food and a Eurocup game.
We had looked into climbing at Meteora, but people wanted to charge us 125 euros per person. No thanks. We can easily return to Athens in the future with our own gear, take a train to Kalambaka, and climb for free. Instead of climbing, the day after our arrival, we saw what most tourists come here to see--the monasteries. And we saw them...all. During the summer only one of them is closed per day, but we saw all five of the open ones and even walked by the one that was closed. This may not seem like a big deal, but these monasteries mostly have a bazillion steps to walk up and the weather was hot, hot, hot. We were glad we weren't climbing because it was so intensely toasty.
We bought an all day city bus ticket that circles past all the monasteries. We visited the most popular monastery first, the Grand Metereon, in order to avoid the crowds. We trudged up the ascending stairs, paid our three euros each (it is the same cost at every monastery) and got our first introduction to Orthodox monasteries. They each have a chapel with painted walls usually with the outer room with scary scenes of neomartyrs getting tortured or people getting tortured at the second coming. The inner chapel typically had pictures from the life of Christ, the iconostasis blocking the most holy places with its paintings of (from right to left) John the Baptist, Jesus, Mary and baby Jesus, and finally the Saint of the chapel. Jesus looks down from the most high ceiling and lamps hang down from this area. Somewhere around the chapel might be a holy relic to find. We discovered a skull in a box in our last chapel of the day. It also had the most fantastic fish monster with a red curving beam full of demons until it reached the bottom of Jesus' feet above it.
One can also find signs to "the net". This is where supplies or monks would be hauled up in a net from the ground way up high hundreds of feet to the monastery. In the past there were not the carved steps of today in the side of the rock. This was on purpose to protect themselves from antimonastic folks. They also sometimes used long wooden ladders that could be brought up in times of need. Now they still use the area of the net, but there are giant cables with metal container to haul the monks and supplies. It seemed like a lot the monasteries are doing repair work, so they were moving a lot of concrete bags.
Another interesting aspect of the monasteries were the planks of wood and three chained pieces of metal. I kept wondering what they were until finally there was an English explanation at the last monastery. Apparently the monks and nuns hit these items with a mallet to call people to worship. This is an allusion to Noah knocking on the side of the ark to call the animals inside before the flood.
In regard to the specific monasteries, the grand Meteoron had three different museums inside it. One had pictures and items from World War Two and other historical conflicts. The second held old religious vestments and other religious items like chalices and canes. The final museum possessed ancient books handwritten by monks, some even back to the early hundreds. Apparently they were saved by monks hiding them away somewhere in the monasteries during attacks.
We visited the Varlaam monastery next which had a fun winding staircase. We missed the next bus, so we took our time and chatted with a touring biker. Finally our bus arrived and we visited the one monk residing Saint appolos monastery. It may have been our favorite because we were the only tourists, it had a shaded terrace, nice frescos, and felt very peaceful.
Our fourth monastery was actually and nunnery. Darren wanted to explore a trail, so I went in by myself and somehow became surrounded by a group of Russians. It was a good monastery for him to skip because the only thing to see was a small chapel, and the Russians were a bit pushy in it. I went outside and hauled it up the mountainside to try to catch Darren and obscond my curiosity. I didn't find him, but I found another heap of Russians at a lookout. I booked it back down the hill and met Darren at the bus stop. We waited for a good fifteen to twenty minutes trying to stay cool in the shade and trying to pet a snooty cat.
The last monastery would not be open for a couple hours, so we took the bus to Kalambaka for some power lounging at a coffee shop and to take a look around the town. We ended up being at the wrong bus stop and missed our bus, so sucked it up and paid ten euros for a taxi to take us past the plains up to another nunnery. For this one all we had to do was cross a bridge instead of hike up a bazillion stairs. The nunnery had a lot of beautiful flowers and, as aforementioned, some pretty wild frescoes. The nuns were on hand to explain different aspects of the paintings, but unfortunately we could not understand them.
We relaxed until the sun lost some of its power, and then walked up the road past the monastery that was closed for the day, and down a path through the woods that took us all the way back to Kalambaka. Along the way we kept wishing we had mountain bikes because of the incredible cobblestone paths and nice slope of the trail. From Kalambaka to Kastraki we traveled along dirt paths where we found a turtle, roosters, and loads of wildflowers. We stopped at a taverna with an actively spinning spit for imam (Cooked vegetables) and mousaka. It was a delicious way to end our very active day.
We were some of the first in our refuge to awaken, and we did not see anyone but one or two people as we voyaged out onto the trail after our breakfast. The first portion of the route was an easy mostly flat skirting of Stefanie peak dotted with a couple Balkan chamois. We also ran into a fella who was super lost and thought Mystikas, the highest point on Mount Olympus, was some little hill behind our refuge. We explained that he was wrong and that he could follow us. We picked up another lost gal at the turn off up the class 3 scramble.
The scrambling was fun and the only real danger was loose rocks which we simply took caution to not knock any off onto the gal and guy below us. Slowly we climbed our way up to the top of Mystikas to enjoy the sea and rocky views and to pose by the Grecian flag amongst flowing prayer flags.
We decided to scramble back down the class three rocks and then hike on new territory to Prionia. Along the way we passed a board of teenagers being guided, more wildflowers and bejeweled horses, and a heap of switchbacks.
When we reached Prionia, we had the decision to hike another five miles or catch a ride. A fella we had hiked a bit with had a car and offered us a ride, so we took advantage. It was a good thing we did because he is an Israeli guide who was not only interesting to chat with, but also knew about a Mount Olympus museum that had just opened at the bottom of the hill just a couple days prior. The three of us drove down from the trailhead to the museum and admired it's fabulous layout, descriptions, and photos.
He dropped us off at the bottom of town and we looked for bus information. We could not find anything, so we just returned to our house to pick up our bags. The people we were staying with were so incredibly nice. They looked up the train schedule and gave us espresso and a local cherry jam to consume. It was delicious and they had made it themselves. On top of everything, they then drove us the five kilometers back to the train station for our trip to Kalambaka. They were definitely some of the best hosts I have ever had.
Our train was on strike, but thankfully still running. We just had to switch trains in Larissa and keep going. I had reserved us a room at the Tsilei Hotel in Kaseraki which I discovered was just two kilometers from Kalambaki thanks to a visit it a coffee/bar full of men and wifi. The scenery with its massive pinnacles was so beautiful, we decided to just walk to our hotel to better take them in and save some money. The walk was gloriously scenic and we reached our hotel in time to get some more great views from our balcony. We settled in, did a loop around Kastraki, then found a taverna near our hotel for local Greek food and a Eurocup game.
We had looked into climbing at Meteora, but people wanted to charge us 125 euros per person. No thanks. We can easily return to Athens in the future with our own gear, take a train to Kalambaka, and climb for free. Instead of climbing, the day after our arrival, we saw what most tourists come here to see--the monasteries. And we saw them...all. During the summer only one of them is closed per day, but we saw all five of the open ones and even walked by the one that was closed. This may not seem like a big deal, but these monasteries mostly have a bazillion steps to walk up and the weather was hot, hot, hot. We were glad we weren't climbing because it was so intensely toasty.
We bought an all day city bus ticket that circles past all the monasteries. We visited the most popular monastery first, the Grand Metereon, in order to avoid the crowds. We trudged up the ascending stairs, paid our three euros each (it is the same cost at every monastery) and got our first introduction to Orthodox monasteries. They each have a chapel with painted walls usually with the outer room with scary scenes of neomartyrs getting tortured or people getting tortured at the second coming. The inner chapel typically had pictures from the life of Christ, the iconostasis blocking the most holy places with its paintings of (from right to left) John the Baptist, Jesus, Mary and baby Jesus, and finally the Saint of the chapel. Jesus looks down from the most high ceiling and lamps hang down from this area. Somewhere around the chapel might be a holy relic to find. We discovered a skull in a box in our last chapel of the day. It also had the most fantastic fish monster with a red curving beam full of demons until it reached the bottom of Jesus' feet above it.
One can also find signs to "the net". This is where supplies or monks would be hauled up in a net from the ground way up high hundreds of feet to the monastery. In the past there were not the carved steps of today in the side of the rock. This was on purpose to protect themselves from antimonastic folks. They also sometimes used long wooden ladders that could be brought up in times of need. Now they still use the area of the net, but there are giant cables with metal container to haul the monks and supplies. It seemed like a lot the monasteries are doing repair work, so they were moving a lot of concrete bags.
Another interesting aspect of the monasteries were the planks of wood and three chained pieces of metal. I kept wondering what they were until finally there was an English explanation at the last monastery. Apparently the monks and nuns hit these items with a mallet to call people to worship. This is an allusion to Noah knocking on the side of the ark to call the animals inside before the flood.
In regard to the specific monasteries, the grand Meteoron had three different museums inside it. One had pictures and items from World War Two and other historical conflicts. The second held old religious vestments and other religious items like chalices and canes. The final museum possessed ancient books handwritten by monks, some even back to the early hundreds. Apparently they were saved by monks hiding them away somewhere in the monasteries during attacks.
We visited the Varlaam monastery next which had a fun winding staircase. We missed the next bus, so we took our time and chatted with a touring biker. Finally our bus arrived and we visited the one monk residing Saint appolos monastery. It may have been our favorite because we were the only tourists, it had a shaded terrace, nice frescos, and felt very peaceful.
Our fourth monastery was actually and nunnery. Darren wanted to explore a trail, so I went in by myself and somehow became surrounded by a group of Russians. It was a good monastery for him to skip because the only thing to see was a small chapel, and the Russians were a bit pushy in it. I went outside and hauled it up the mountainside to try to catch Darren and obscond my curiosity. I didn't find him, but I found another heap of Russians at a lookout. I booked it back down the hill and met Darren at the bus stop. We waited for a good fifteen to twenty minutes trying to stay cool in the shade and trying to pet a snooty cat.
The last monastery would not be open for a couple hours, so we took the bus to Kalambaka for some power lounging at a coffee shop and to take a look around the town. We ended up being at the wrong bus stop and missed our bus, so sucked it up and paid ten euros for a taxi to take us past the plains up to another nunnery. For this one all we had to do was cross a bridge instead of hike up a bazillion stairs. The nunnery had a lot of beautiful flowers and, as aforementioned, some pretty wild frescoes. The nuns were on hand to explain different aspects of the paintings, but unfortunately we could not understand them.
We relaxed until the sun lost some of its power, and then walked up the road past the monastery that was closed for the day, and down a path through the woods that took us all the way back to Kalambaka. Along the way we kept wishing we had mountain bikes because of the incredible cobblestone paths and nice slope of the trail. From Kalambaka to Kastraki we traveled along dirt paths where we found a turtle, roosters, and loads of wildflowers. We stopped at a taverna with an actively spinning spit for imam (Cooked vegetables) and mousaka. It was a delicious way to end our very active day.
In Pursuit of the Gods
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Labels:
Greece
June 12 to 14
We had a relaxing morning slowly gathering our luggage, taking showers and then once again venturing through the winding streets of the Chania old city. We ate omelettes on the bank of the Venetian harbor, bought coral worry beads, then took an hour glass bottom boat ride with Captain Nick where Darren and I snorkeled off a close island. Nick also let us take turns driving the boat and chatted with me about traveling.
Back on shore, we walked to the old lighthouse with Darren finding his own worry beads, then had seaside caffeinated coffee drinks before heading back to the apartment. Monika was super nice and let us checkout in the afternoon just before we needed to leave for our bus to the airport. We had a difficult time finding the bus stop she suggested, but we made it to the station just before it left.
We flew from Hania, Crete to the north of Greece in the city of Thessaloniki. Darren slept the whole one hour flight, but I was able to catch sight of the green circle of trees surrounding the Acropolis of Athens.
In Thessaloniki we took the bus from the airport to the city and discovered how huge and crowded it is. Thankfully our apartment was in a quiet university neighborhood and we were met at the front door by the caretaker who spoke perfect English and gave us great recommendations for the area for food.
After FaceTiming with Darren's parents, we ate at one of the recommended falafel spots. We were horrified to see images on the television about the Orlando mass shooting, but we didn't really know what had gone on until we watched the English speaking BBC the next morning in our apartment.
I was on the verge of tears watching about all those innocent people being murdered. I don't understand the mindset of it. But I do know that we have to keep living the best we can and trying to be an example of love for others.
We packed up once again and explored the dense city. First we walked down our street to the city's saint's church Agia Demetrious. I believe it was built in the 300s and still has Byzantine mosaics and frescoes along with the typical icons, holy gate, and massive candles. One candle was the length of my body and cost ten euros.
After the church, we walked past the old Roman ruins of a hippodrome along the main Venetian style street of the city all the way to the sea. Along the way we bought train tickets for an afternoon train to Lesitoro. At the end of the street I found an info kiosk for a map and information about tour buses. I was starting to really not feel too well and the city was a bit overwhelming and sprawling, so I thought the bus might be a good idea.
As we walked along the sea towards the city's iconic White Tower and starting point for the bus, we paused for super strong frappes. One can never have too many in Greece.
On our bus ride we passed museums, the old wall, churches, markets, squares, and we paused and got off at the ruins of Byzantine castles from which we hiked up to the old Acropolis. It had after been transformed into a jail, but now is offices for the archeological organization of the city. From the bus we also paused at the Galerius Gate from Roman times and I paid to take a look inside the ancient Rotunda while Darren bought us falafel. It was a good time to relax because I was feeling worse. The food and resting helped a bit, and I was able to have enough energy to explore the awarded Byzantine Museum with Darren and I poaching a college guided tour. The most interesting aspect for me was again just learning and thinking about the transition they had from pagan to Christian and how they were different from the western form of Christianity.
After the museum, I wanted to leave plenty of time to get to the train station, so we found the correct bus and ended up getting on our train 40 minutes or so early. That was perfectly fine with me.
Our newest AirB&B host was kind enough to pick us up from the train station in Lisitoro. This was great because unbeknownst to us it was five kilometers from town and there were no taxis. We had amazing views of Mount Olympus, and after our host showed us around our huge house we walked downhill into town and snapped a few shots of the massive rock. We also prepared for our hike. I bought another jacket and socks and we purchased drink and food. We also supped at a local restaurant on chicken souvlaki, an eggplant and feta dish, potatoes and bread. It was delicious and they even gave us free dessert.
Today we hiked the first five hours up Mount Olympus. We tried to hitchhike to the trailhead but only had luck with acquiring a five pack of dogs which we named carbaryis, feta, kalimera, Zeus, and souvlaki. They were still with us when we hiked back to the taxi stop.
We caved and paid the twenty euros for the taxi to take us to the Gortsia trailhead, but to me it was worth saving us a six hour hike up a road. Instead we began through the forest that reminded me a bit like Tennessee woods, but less humid. After two hours we reached the first refuge and took a coffee break. We continued on past smatterings of wildflowers and a line of beaded and bell wearing horses to tree line. From there the views of the sea and craggy mountains were magnificent.
I had been worried about rain and forecasted thunderstorms but thankfully rain and light grapple really only hit us the last 20 minutes or so of our hike. It also became very foggy but we were still able to spot a couple Balkan chamois and the turn for our refuge.
We arrived around 2PM but were tired so we dried off by the fire and took a nap for a few hours. After awaking I read a little, ate supper with Darren and then enjoyed the rest of the evening chatting with our refuge mates from Atlanta, Germany, Switzerland, and Greece. I have also been stoked to catch up on this writing!
We had a relaxing morning slowly gathering our luggage, taking showers and then once again venturing through the winding streets of the Chania old city. We ate omelettes on the bank of the Venetian harbor, bought coral worry beads, then took an hour glass bottom boat ride with Captain Nick where Darren and I snorkeled off a close island. Nick also let us take turns driving the boat and chatted with me about traveling.
Back on shore, we walked to the old lighthouse with Darren finding his own worry beads, then had seaside caffeinated coffee drinks before heading back to the apartment. Monika was super nice and let us checkout in the afternoon just before we needed to leave for our bus to the airport. We had a difficult time finding the bus stop she suggested, but we made it to the station just before it left.
We flew from Hania, Crete to the north of Greece in the city of Thessaloniki. Darren slept the whole one hour flight, but I was able to catch sight of the green circle of trees surrounding the Acropolis of Athens.
In Thessaloniki we took the bus from the airport to the city and discovered how huge and crowded it is. Thankfully our apartment was in a quiet university neighborhood and we were met at the front door by the caretaker who spoke perfect English and gave us great recommendations for the area for food.
After FaceTiming with Darren's parents, we ate at one of the recommended falafel spots. We were horrified to see images on the television about the Orlando mass shooting, but we didn't really know what had gone on until we watched the English speaking BBC the next morning in our apartment.
I was on the verge of tears watching about all those innocent people being murdered. I don't understand the mindset of it. But I do know that we have to keep living the best we can and trying to be an example of love for others.
We packed up once again and explored the dense city. First we walked down our street to the city's saint's church Agia Demetrious. I believe it was built in the 300s and still has Byzantine mosaics and frescoes along with the typical icons, holy gate, and massive candles. One candle was the length of my body and cost ten euros.
After the church, we walked past the old Roman ruins of a hippodrome along the main Venetian style street of the city all the way to the sea. Along the way we bought train tickets for an afternoon train to Lesitoro. At the end of the street I found an info kiosk for a map and information about tour buses. I was starting to really not feel too well and the city was a bit overwhelming and sprawling, so I thought the bus might be a good idea.
As we walked along the sea towards the city's iconic White Tower and starting point for the bus, we paused for super strong frappes. One can never have too many in Greece.
On our bus ride we passed museums, the old wall, churches, markets, squares, and we paused and got off at the ruins of Byzantine castles from which we hiked up to the old Acropolis. It had after been transformed into a jail, but now is offices for the archeological organization of the city. From the bus we also paused at the Galerius Gate from Roman times and I paid to take a look inside the ancient Rotunda while Darren bought us falafel. It was a good time to relax because I was feeling worse. The food and resting helped a bit, and I was able to have enough energy to explore the awarded Byzantine Museum with Darren and I poaching a college guided tour. The most interesting aspect for me was again just learning and thinking about the transition they had from pagan to Christian and how they were different from the western form of Christianity.
After the museum, I wanted to leave plenty of time to get to the train station, so we found the correct bus and ended up getting on our train 40 minutes or so early. That was perfectly fine with me.
Our newest AirB&B host was kind enough to pick us up from the train station in Lisitoro. This was great because unbeknownst to us it was five kilometers from town and there were no taxis. We had amazing views of Mount Olympus, and after our host showed us around our huge house we walked downhill into town and snapped a few shots of the massive rock. We also prepared for our hike. I bought another jacket and socks and we purchased drink and food. We also supped at a local restaurant on chicken souvlaki, an eggplant and feta dish, potatoes and bread. It was delicious and they even gave us free dessert.
Today we hiked the first five hours up Mount Olympus. We tried to hitchhike to the trailhead but only had luck with acquiring a five pack of dogs which we named carbaryis, feta, kalimera, Zeus, and souvlaki. They were still with us when we hiked back to the taxi stop.
We caved and paid the twenty euros for the taxi to take us to the Gortsia trailhead, but to me it was worth saving us a six hour hike up a road. Instead we began through the forest that reminded me a bit like Tennessee woods, but less humid. After two hours we reached the first refuge and took a coffee break. We continued on past smatterings of wildflowers and a line of beaded and bell wearing horses to tree line. From there the views of the sea and craggy mountains were magnificent.
I had been worried about rain and forecasted thunderstorms but thankfully rain and light grapple really only hit us the last 20 minutes or so of our hike. It also became very foggy but we were still able to spot a couple Balkan chamois and the turn for our refuge.
We arrived around 2PM but were tired so we dried off by the fire and took a nap for a few hours. After awaking I read a little, ate supper with Darren and then enjoyed the rest of the evening chatting with our refuge mates from Atlanta, Germany, Switzerland, and Greece. I have also been stoked to catch up on this writing!
The Samaria Gorge
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Labels:
Greece
Yesterday we woke up around 5AM to catch the 6:15AM bus to trailhead for the Samaria Gorge. It is purported by some as the longest gorge in Europe, but I think it is surpassed by the Verdon Gorge. Either way, Darren and I were excited to take a break from museums and bask in beautiful nature. Although the trail can be famously crowded, we were able let to hoards from the bus pass us and find tranquility spotting the Cretan mountain goats, butterflies, birds mostly by ourselves. We began the hike with a number of switchbacks starting the 4000 foot descent of the gorge. Along the way were innumerable fire houses and hoses. I guess they are very concerned that their pine and cypress trees could burst into flames at any moment. They are also prepared for rock fall and had occasional fencing over the top of the trail for particularly dangerous spots. Near the end of the switchbacks we began seeing beautiful wild pink oleander buses and the start of a small creek. The trail became somewhat less rocky as we passed old ruins and in between massive limestone cliffs.
We paused for occasional water and snack breaks with plenty of spots to refill our bottles and use the restroom. Eventually we came to an area that seemed more typical of gorge hikes I have done in the past: sandy ground and narrower trails through limestone canyon. We never had to do anything technical, but Darren did find a small offshoot canyon to explore until it became to difficult without a rope to ascend.
One our our last stops was at the Samaria village that had a feisty Cretan goat trying to forage people's lunches. One young girl was screaming as it almost pushed her with its horns.
Eventually we emerged past a ticket checkpoint into a village where we took a van two more kilometers to the beach. There we found a table by the beach to reward ourselves with Greek yogurt, Greek salad, a cappuccino and frappe, and, of course, free wifi. We then bought our bus and ferry tickets and strolled over to the black sand to enjoy the ocean. We decided to get some deck chairs (free with the purchase of a drink) after I realized my feet could not handle the burning sand. We ran across it enough to get in the Libyan Sea for the first time. Then we relaxed until it was time to take our ferry to Sfaklion and then our bus back to Hania.
Back in town, the streets were booming with people, some of the teens covered in what looked like colored powder. Apparently there was a "color party" going on somewhere. We bought the cheapest meal of the trip so far, two euro pita sandwiches, and then wound our way through the pedestrian streets of the town and along the Venetian harbor.
We paused for occasional water and snack breaks with plenty of spots to refill our bottles and use the restroom. Eventually we came to an area that seemed more typical of gorge hikes I have done in the past: sandy ground and narrower trails through limestone canyon. We never had to do anything technical, but Darren did find a small offshoot canyon to explore until it became to difficult without a rope to ascend.
One our our last stops was at the Samaria village that had a feisty Cretan goat trying to forage people's lunches. One young girl was screaming as it almost pushed her with its horns.
Eventually we emerged past a ticket checkpoint into a village where we took a van two more kilometers to the beach. There we found a table by the beach to reward ourselves with Greek yogurt, Greek salad, a cappuccino and frappe, and, of course, free wifi. We then bought our bus and ferry tickets and strolled over to the black sand to enjoy the ocean. We decided to get some deck chairs (free with the purchase of a drink) after I realized my feet could not handle the burning sand. We ran across it enough to get in the Libyan Sea for the first time. Then we relaxed until it was time to take our ferry to Sfaklion and then our bus back to Hania.
Back in town, the streets were booming with people, some of the teens covered in what looked like colored powder. Apparently there was a "color party" going on somewhere. We bought the cheapest meal of the trip so far, two euro pita sandwiches, and then wound our way through the pedestrian streets of the town and along the Venetian harbor.
Beware the Minataur and His Maze
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Labels:
Greece
It is almost midnight, and we are planning to wake up at 5AM, so why am I still awake? I will explain in just a few moments.
This morning we woke up sometime around 4 or 5AM because we had gone to bed so early on the ferry. We were so awake that we gave up, took showers, and meandered up to the deck to watch the beautiful sunrise over Crete. After about an hour or less, we arrived at the island, bought our tickets to Chania for the afternoon, than found the bus to Knossos. It was so early, that when we arrived all of the cafes and the palace site were still closed. Finally, one cafe let us sit for expensive coffee and soon after the site opened where we bought breakfast pastries. A lady from the Union of Santorini and Crete guides approached us and asked if we wanted a tour of the site for 10 euros each. I do not have a very in depth guide book, and I was sick of reading displays, so I thought this would be a good idea. The only problem was that we needed a group of six for her to be able to guide us. We waited at least a half hour and almost gave up, but some folks with a baby, and a couple with a baby showed agreed to join the group around 9AM or so and we were off. Crazily I learned that one of the Argentinians was from Entre Rios, and she knew of my university.
Anyhow, during our tour from "Mama Moomoo," we learned all about the ancient Minoans, their palace, natural air conditioning using corridors, Sky lights and Windows, sea and floral motif frescos, processions, labirinthian rooms, water pipes, humongous storage jars, and the myths and archaeology that go along with the site.
I was really happy for the fabulous tour and that we had gone to it before the archaeology museum we went to after a lunch of Greek salad, mousaka, and some Cretan appetizer. In the museum we saw the originals taken out of the site for preservation plus the Cretan history with objects all in context and chronological order. The museum reopened just two years ago after being closed for eight years for improvements, and I think they have done a marvelous job.
After having our museum fill, we wandered the pedestrian city streets and found the old church, harbor, and fort with obvious Venetian influence from when they were in power of Crete. The lion was ubiquitous.
Finally we returned to the bus station to take the three hour bus ride to Chania. To my delight there was decent wifi on board, so I did some travel research and even booked us a place to stay in Thessolaniki.
When we reached Chania, our house host met us and walked with us to our apartment. I thought I was paying decent attention, but later this evening after exploring the old town, Darren and I wandered around the streets for who knows how long looking for the correct apartment door. Finally we walked to a coffee shop with free wifi and I found the correct address. Finally we have been able to get our bed and can catch a few hours before our ten plus mile hike tomorrow. Yikes.
Our Last Day in the City of the Olive Tree
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Labels:
Greece
Thursday, June 9
We had one last day in Athens and we had already seen the major major sites, so today we checked out some of the smaller museums including The Byzantine and Christian Museum, The Cycladic Museum, and The Benaki Museum. The first took us through Greek history and helped explain how Greece transitioned from Greek to Roman and then early Christian/Byzantine rule. It reminded me somewhat of the transition it may have been for the Indians in Latin America transitioning to Catholic influence, not truly getting rid of those influences. In the Greek situation, it seems that the Byzantine era continued with practices like burying the dead with items and wearing elaborate jewelry. I also learned about the Christians in Egypt which were called Copts and their mixture of pagan and Christian symbols. The museum included a section on the importance of the pilgrimage to the Holy Land and how folks would often take bottles with holy water or other items for their time in these places.
Our second museum, The Cycladic Museum, started with a temporary exhibition by Ai Wei Wei, a Chinese fella who has been influenced by the Cultural Revolution and who has incorporated current events into his geometric art. For example, he had a marble mask representing the poor air quality in Chinese cities. He also created installations specifically with the museum in mind including tires and floats representing the refugees passing through the Greek region and a giant Cycladic figure with a falling vases--an allusion to his most famous art piece: pictures of him dropping a Chinese vase.
We began the museum's permanent exhibits on the top floor with a section devoted to ancient daily Greek life. I liked learning about the grime and sweat tool the athletes would use to clean themselves after they would train or play in their ancient games. The next floor described the ancient Cyprians and their influence and how they were influenced by the world around them because of their position between the East and the West and their frequent travels between the two. Finally we reached the Cycladic floor filled to the brim with their iconic ancient 3000 BC to 2000 BC statuettes of figures crossing their arms in front of them. Apparently these later influenced the art of Picasso and Modigliani. This was easy to see because of their geometric stretched out shapes.
After the Cycladic museum, we paused to eat some pizza and frappes in the posh area close to all the embassies (frappes seem to be extremely popular). We were refreshed and our last museum was refreshingly free. The Benaki included art and historical items like we had seen in the other museums of Greece, but it also included costumes and recreated rooms from the region. I loved the bright deep colors in the fabrics of the dress and furniture and the huge multi-pieced jewelry.
Darren was having a hard time staying awake after all of these museums, but we were able to amble through the National Gardens to the Panathenaic Stadium. It was hot and we did not feel like paying the entrance fee because we could see it quite well. So, we decided to go ahead and make our way on the tram and metro to Pireus to pick up our ferry tickets. After obtaining them in town, we took a metro stop back to the more peaceful town of Mikrolimano for seaside chicken souvlaki and Greek salad.
By the time we walked and took the metro back to Pireus, it was late enough for our ferry to let us on board, probably around 7PM. Our ferry was not supposed to leave until 9PM, but they showed us to our room passing by signs for a pool. We thought maybe we would use it, but instead we collapsed in our private room and were probably sleeping by 8PM. I had decided to splurge on getting the room, and I was glad we did. We could have just slept the night on airplane seats, but it was super nice to lie down and take a hot shower in the early morning.
We had one last day in Athens and we had already seen the major major sites, so today we checked out some of the smaller museums including The Byzantine and Christian Museum, The Cycladic Museum, and The Benaki Museum. The first took us through Greek history and helped explain how Greece transitioned from Greek to Roman and then early Christian/Byzantine rule. It reminded me somewhat of the transition it may have been for the Indians in Latin America transitioning to Catholic influence, not truly getting rid of those influences. In the Greek situation, it seems that the Byzantine era continued with practices like burying the dead with items and wearing elaborate jewelry. I also learned about the Christians in Egypt which were called Copts and their mixture of pagan and Christian symbols. The museum included a section on the importance of the pilgrimage to the Holy Land and how folks would often take bottles with holy water or other items for their time in these places.
Our second museum, The Cycladic Museum, started with a temporary exhibition by Ai Wei Wei, a Chinese fella who has been influenced by the Cultural Revolution and who has incorporated current events into his geometric art. For example, he had a marble mask representing the poor air quality in Chinese cities. He also created installations specifically with the museum in mind including tires and floats representing the refugees passing through the Greek region and a giant Cycladic figure with a falling vases--an allusion to his most famous art piece: pictures of him dropping a Chinese vase.
We began the museum's permanent exhibits on the top floor with a section devoted to ancient daily Greek life. I liked learning about the grime and sweat tool the athletes would use to clean themselves after they would train or play in their ancient games. The next floor described the ancient Cyprians and their influence and how they were influenced by the world around them because of their position between the East and the West and their frequent travels between the two. Finally we reached the Cycladic floor filled to the brim with their iconic ancient 3000 BC to 2000 BC statuettes of figures crossing their arms in front of them. Apparently these later influenced the art of Picasso and Modigliani. This was easy to see because of their geometric stretched out shapes.
After the Cycladic museum, we paused to eat some pizza and frappes in the posh area close to all the embassies (frappes seem to be extremely popular). We were refreshed and our last museum was refreshingly free. The Benaki included art and historical items like we had seen in the other museums of Greece, but it also included costumes and recreated rooms from the region. I loved the bright deep colors in the fabrics of the dress and furniture and the huge multi-pieced jewelry.
Darren was having a hard time staying awake after all of these museums, but we were able to amble through the National Gardens to the Panathenaic Stadium. It was hot and we did not feel like paying the entrance fee because we could see it quite well. So, we decided to go ahead and make our way on the tram and metro to Pireus to pick up our ferry tickets. After obtaining them in town, we took a metro stop back to the more peaceful town of Mikrolimano for seaside chicken souvlaki and Greek salad.
By the time we walked and took the metro back to Pireus, it was late enough for our ferry to let us on board, probably around 7PM. Our ferry was not supposed to leave until 9PM, but they showed us to our room passing by signs for a pool. We thought maybe we would use it, but instead we collapsed in our private room and were probably sleeping by 8PM. I had decided to splurge on getting the room, and I was glad we did. We could have just slept the night on airplane seats, but it was super nice to lie down and take a hot shower in the early morning.
The First Greek Hippie
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Labels:
Greece
We have filled our Athenian days in a big way. We arrived in the morning and had a full day to try and stay awake. So, it probably was not the best idea to tackle one of the most tiring tourist sites in all of Athens: The National Archaeology Museum. Regardless, after figuring out how to use the metro system, locating and solving how to use our key to get in our apartment, showering, and obtaining food this is what we did. We took the metro to the only part of the city I had read can have violent crime and nervously walked ten minutes past graffiti to the museum.
I lost Darren after the first 45 minutes or so and left him to sleep in the lobby while I cruised past ancient Greek to Roman sculpture. I also perused through prehistoric art, Egyptian art, vases, and an exhibit of 19th century traveler's view of Athens. When I finally emerged after my fifth or so time passing by the endless statues back to the lobby, Darren was no longer present. I found him outside lying on the cool marble column lined porch with rain lightly falling in the background. He told me he wanted another ten minutes to sleep, so we rested and ventured out to find an early supper. We choose a place with baked goods and caffeine that threw in a couple baklava with our meal.
We traveled the metro and walked back to the apartment only to discover that our keys were missing. Trying not to go into full panic mode, we retraced our way back north and thankfully Darren immediately saw the keys underneath the chair upon which he had been seated.
The caffeine consumed was not effective, and after returning to our apartment again, we fell asleep within an hour...probably around 7 PM or so. We both only maybe woke up once during the night, and were raring to go the next morning around 5:30 or 6AM.
We tackled the ancient city of Athens with three Rick Steves' walking tours. First we saw the Acropolis, then did a city tour, and finally explored the Ancient Agora. Amongst the tours we also explored the remains of the Temple to the Olympian Zeus and ate dried olives and chocolate Caprice cookies on a shaded bench. We walked up a long hill back up towards the Acropolis pausing for cappuccino and a salad and sandwich before seeing the newish Acropolis Museum. It was amazing and not too overwhelming. Our favorite part may have been the Lego replica including our favorite hippie philosopher Diogenes telling Alexander the Great to stop blocking his sunlight.
We finished with the museum almost as it closed at eight, and boogied on the metro and walking up the steep hike to watch the sun set on Athen's tallest point, Lycceitus hill. We made it to the top with a perfect twenty minutes or so to relax with the other waiting tourists. After the sun sank, we ventured down the mountain to find the metro. We first found a light supper in Syntagma Square and another bench to watch the break dancers, inline skaters, and bike riders look for an audience. I was glad to experience the whole vibe, but when I became cold and tired, it was time to find my bed. I was quite impressed of how much we were able to squeeze in the day and that we were able to be out and about until 11PM.
Memorable moments and sites seen on our walking tours: Acropolis tour: a gazillion cats, watching Greek soldiers March through the Propylea in the early morning, the olive tree that Athena gave to the city winning for ownership against Zeus who produced a salty spring from his Triton, the great view of the city and learning about the Greek youth who stood up to the Nazis who asked him to take down the flag at the Acropolis, the story of the procession along the Panathenic way through the agora up to the Acropolis during Athena's birthday when the Athenians would bring a cloak for the wooden Athena statue in the Erechtheion, the beautiful female caryatids of the Erechtheion, feeling Biblical sitting on the graffiti covered Mars Hill and gazing at the Acropolis.
Here is the extent of my Greek vocabulary:
Yassas: hi/bye
Kalimera: Good morning
Efaristo: Thank you
I lost Darren after the first 45 minutes or so and left him to sleep in the lobby while I cruised past ancient Greek to Roman sculpture. I also perused through prehistoric art, Egyptian art, vases, and an exhibit of 19th century traveler's view of Athens. When I finally emerged after my fifth or so time passing by the endless statues back to the lobby, Darren was no longer present. I found him outside lying on the cool marble column lined porch with rain lightly falling in the background. He told me he wanted another ten minutes to sleep, so we rested and ventured out to find an early supper. We choose a place with baked goods and caffeine that threw in a couple baklava with our meal.
We traveled the metro and walked back to the apartment only to discover that our keys were missing. Trying not to go into full panic mode, we retraced our way back north and thankfully Darren immediately saw the keys underneath the chair upon which he had been seated.
The caffeine consumed was not effective, and after returning to our apartment again, we fell asleep within an hour...probably around 7 PM or so. We both only maybe woke up once during the night, and were raring to go the next morning around 5:30 or 6AM.
We tackled the ancient city of Athens with three Rick Steves' walking tours. First we saw the Acropolis, then did a city tour, and finally explored the Ancient Agora. Amongst the tours we also explored the remains of the Temple to the Olympian Zeus and ate dried olives and chocolate Caprice cookies on a shaded bench. We walked up a long hill back up towards the Acropolis pausing for cappuccino and a salad and sandwich before seeing the newish Acropolis Museum. It was amazing and not too overwhelming. Our favorite part may have been the Lego replica including our favorite hippie philosopher Diogenes telling Alexander the Great to stop blocking his sunlight.
We finished with the museum almost as it closed at eight, and boogied on the metro and walking up the steep hike to watch the sun set on Athen's tallest point, Lycceitus hill. We made it to the top with a perfect twenty minutes or so to relax with the other waiting tourists. After the sun sank, we ventured down the mountain to find the metro. We first found a light supper in Syntagma Square and another bench to watch the break dancers, inline skaters, and bike riders look for an audience. I was glad to experience the whole vibe, but when I became cold and tired, it was time to find my bed. I was quite impressed of how much we were able to squeeze in the day and that we were able to be out and about until 11PM.
Memorable moments and sites seen on our walking tours: Acropolis tour: a gazillion cats, watching Greek soldiers March through the Propylea in the early morning, the olive tree that Athena gave to the city winning for ownership against Zeus who produced a salty spring from his Triton, the great view of the city and learning about the Greek youth who stood up to the Nazis who asked him to take down the flag at the Acropolis, the story of the procession along the Panathenic way through the agora up to the Acropolis during Athena's birthday when the Athenians would bring a cloak for the wooden Athena statue in the Erechtheion, the beautiful female caryatids of the Erechtheion, feeling Biblical sitting on the graffiti covered Mars Hill and gazing at the Acropolis.
Here is the extent of my Greek vocabulary:
Yassas: hi/bye
Kalimera: Good morning
Efaristo: Thank you
To the East We Fly
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Labels:
Canada
Darren and I are on our last flight to reach the beginning of our travels in Eastern Europe. I had looked into earlier dates for flights, but I am actually very happy that we had a few more days with our family. After squaring everything away in Bishop, we were able to spend a few days mountain biking near the lake at Sly Park, relaxing with Darren's parents, helping a cousin move, and watching our oldest nephew graduate from eighth grade.
The California sun has been intense, but we were able to escape by heading to the family houseboat on Lake Oroville for the weekend. I could have spent all my time worrying about our Europe trip, but I only looked at my 11 year old Greece guidebooks fleetingly. Instead we SUPed, jumped off the top of the boat, swam, played water basketball, and rediscovered the endless wave wake surfing. I had forgotten that I had not tried the latter since 2010 (this blog reminded me), and it was so much fun to feel the gentle power of the wave again. No more wake boarding face plants for me, thank you very much.
Sunday afternoon, Darren's family dropped us off at the airport (I already had not showered for several days because of being on the boat. This should be fun.) and we began our journey towards Europe. Actually, first we moved further away by flying to LAX, but that was the cheapest way for us to go. LAX is one of the most disorganized airports I have been in, and I have done a bit of traveling. After our arrival, we had to roam random hallways to get outside to take a bus to a different terminal. I felt extremely tired, and I happened to have a celeb siting of a scruffy looking Bob Saget, which made the whole experience all the more surreal. Somehow we found our bus, then an elevator that popped us out behind the security line. Thankfully someone showed us where to go and we made it to our gate.
I was able to doze a little through our too short four our flight to
Toronto, but coffee was top priority for Darren and me after we landed. We took a train directly to downtown that popped us out at the base of the CN Tower and train museum. We wandered towards the Lake Ontario shore and eventually found a breakfast place. We still had several hours until we had to return for our flight, so we threw down the money to ride the elevator up the CN Tower. I am quite sure I was able to see New York, but did not get a confirmed view of Niagra Falls. The rest of the city seemed clean and filled with trees, water, and high rises. The tower was also fun to explore with glass floors looking down hundreds of feet and the ability to watch the "edge walkers" lean off the side of the tower. When we had a fill of the beauty and excitement, we zoomed back down the elevator and relaxed on the grass just outside until it was time to catch the bus back to the airport.
The California sun has been intense, but we were able to escape by heading to the family houseboat on Lake Oroville for the weekend. I could have spent all my time worrying about our Europe trip, but I only looked at my 11 year old Greece guidebooks fleetingly. Instead we SUPed, jumped off the top of the boat, swam, played water basketball, and rediscovered the endless wave wake surfing. I had forgotten that I had not tried the latter since 2010 (this blog reminded me), and it was so much fun to feel the gentle power of the wave again. No more wake boarding face plants for me, thank you very much.
Sunday afternoon, Darren's family dropped us off at the airport (I already had not showered for several days because of being on the boat. This should be fun.) and we began our journey towards Europe. Actually, first we moved further away by flying to LAX, but that was the cheapest way for us to go. LAX is one of the most disorganized airports I have been in, and I have done a bit of traveling. After our arrival, we had to roam random hallways to get outside to take a bus to a different terminal. I felt extremely tired, and I happened to have a celeb siting of a scruffy looking Bob Saget, which made the whole experience all the more surreal. Somehow we found our bus, then an elevator that popped us out behind the security line. Thankfully someone showed us where to go and we made it to our gate.
I was able to doze a little through our too short four our flight to
Toronto, but coffee was top priority for Darren and me after we landed. We took a train directly to downtown that popped us out at the base of the CN Tower and train museum. We wandered towards the Lake Ontario shore and eventually found a breakfast place. We still had several hours until we had to return for our flight, so we threw down the money to ride the elevator up the CN Tower. I am quite sure I was able to see New York, but did not get a confirmed view of Niagra Falls. The rest of the city seemed clean and filled with trees, water, and high rises. The tower was also fun to explore with glass floors looking down hundreds of feet and the ability to watch the "edge walkers" lean off the side of the tower. When we had a fill of the beauty and excitement, we zoomed back down the elevator and relaxed on the grass just outside until it was time to catch the bus back to the airport.
Tentative Eastern Europe Itinerary
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Labels:
travel
Eastern Europe 2016
June 5: Travel from Sacramento to Athens
June 6: Travel to Athens via day in Toronto, Canada
June 7: Arrive in Athens, Greece; sleep in Athens
June 8: Athens, Greece; sleep in Athens
June 9: Athens, Greece, night ferry to Crete
June 10: Knossos and Herkalio Archeology Museum, Crete, Greece; sleep in Hania
June 11: Samaria Gorge and Chania, Crete, Greece; sleep in Hania
June 12: Chania, Crete, Greece, fly to and sleep in Thesolaniki, Greece
June 13: Thesoliniki, Greece; travel and sleep in Litochoro
June 14: Mt. Olympus, Greece, sleep in refuge
June 15: Mt. Olympus, Greece, travel to and sleep in Kastraki, Greece
June 16: Meteora, Greece, sleep in Kastraki, Greece
June 17: Travel to and sleep in Corfu, Greece
June 18: Butrint, Gjirokastra, Albania, sleep in Gjirokastra, Albania
June 19: Gjirokastra, Travel to and sleep in Berat, Albania
June 20: Berat, travel to and sleep in Tirana, Albania
June 21: Tirana travel to and sleep in Ohrid, Macedonia
June 22: Ohrid, Macedonia, sleep in Ohrid, Macedonia
June 23: Bitola, Macedonia, travel and sleep in Skopje, Macedonia
June 24: Skopje, Macedonia, travel to Sofia, Bulgaria, sleep on bus
June 25: Sofia, Bulgaria, travel to Belgrade, Serbia, sleep on train
June 26: Subotica and Novi Sad, Serbia; sleep in Novi Sad, Serbia
June 27: Novi Sad and Belgrade, Serbia; sleep in Belgrade, Serbia
June 28: Belgrade, Serbia, sleep in Belgrade, Serbia
June 29: Travel to and sleep in Nis, Serbia
June 30: Nis, Serbia and travel to and sleep in Pristina, Kosovo
July 1: Pristina, Kosovo; overnight bus to Budva, Montenegro
July 2: Bay of Kotor, Montenegro
July 3: Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
July 4: Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
July 5: Dubrovnik, Croatia
July 6: Dubrovnik, Croatia
July 7: Split, Croatia (island?)
July 8: Split, Croatia
July 9: Zadar, Croatia
July 10: Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
July 11: Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia; Zagreb, Croatia
July 12: Lake Bled, Slovenia
July 13: Lake Bled & Julian Alps, Slovenia
July 14: Ljubljana, Slovenia
July 15: Ljubljana, Slovenia, travel to and sleep in Bratislava, Slovakia
July 16: Bratislava, Slovakia; sleep in Bratislava
July 17: Bratislava, Slovakia; travel and sleep in Vienna, Austria
July 18: Vienna, Austria, sleep in Vienna, Austria
July 19: Fly from Vienna to Denver
June 5: Travel from Sacramento to Athens
June 6: Travel to Athens via day in Toronto, Canada
June 7: Arrive in Athens, Greece; sleep in Athens
June 8: Athens, Greece; sleep in Athens
June 9: Athens, Greece, night ferry to Crete
June 10: Knossos and Herkalio Archeology Museum, Crete, Greece; sleep in Hania
June 11: Samaria Gorge and Chania, Crete, Greece; sleep in Hania
June 12: Chania, Crete, Greece, fly to and sleep in Thesolaniki, Greece
June 13: Thesoliniki, Greece; travel and sleep in Litochoro
June 14: Mt. Olympus, Greece, sleep in refuge
June 15: Mt. Olympus, Greece, travel to and sleep in Kastraki, Greece
June 16: Meteora, Greece, sleep in Kastraki, Greece
June 17: Travel to and sleep in Corfu, Greece
June 18: Butrint, Gjirokastra, Albania, sleep in Gjirokastra, Albania
June 19: Gjirokastra, Travel to and sleep in Berat, Albania
June 20: Berat, travel to and sleep in Tirana, Albania
June 21: Tirana travel to and sleep in Ohrid, Macedonia
June 22: Ohrid, Macedonia, sleep in Ohrid, Macedonia
June 23: Bitola, Macedonia, travel and sleep in Skopje, Macedonia
June 24: Skopje, Macedonia, travel to Sofia, Bulgaria, sleep on bus
June 25: Sofia, Bulgaria, travel to Belgrade, Serbia, sleep on train
June 26: Subotica and Novi Sad, Serbia; sleep in Novi Sad, Serbia
June 27: Novi Sad and Belgrade, Serbia; sleep in Belgrade, Serbia
June 28: Belgrade, Serbia, sleep in Belgrade, Serbia
June 29: Travel to and sleep in Nis, Serbia
June 30: Nis, Serbia and travel to and sleep in Pristina, Kosovo
July 1: Pristina, Kosovo; overnight bus to Budva, Montenegro
July 2: Bay of Kotor, Montenegro
July 3: Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
July 4: Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
July 5: Dubrovnik, Croatia
July 6: Dubrovnik, Croatia
July 7: Split, Croatia (island?)
July 8: Split, Croatia
July 9: Zadar, Croatia
July 10: Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
July 11: Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia; Zagreb, Croatia
July 12: Lake Bled, Slovenia
July 13: Lake Bled & Julian Alps, Slovenia
July 14: Ljubljana, Slovenia
July 15: Ljubljana, Slovenia, travel to and sleep in Bratislava, Slovakia
July 16: Bratislava, Slovakia; sleep in Bratislava
July 17: Bratislava, Slovakia; travel and sleep in Vienna, Austria
July 18: Vienna, Austria, sleep in Vienna, Austria
July 19: Fly from Vienna to Denver
On the Coast of the Sea
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Labels:
capoeira
O vento balançou o coqueiro
Sacudiu as ondas do mar
Historias da Capoeira
No meu canto eu vou contar
Sacudiu as ondas do mar
Historias da Capoeira
No meu canto eu vou contar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Ouvi o canto da sereia do mar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Ouvi o canto da sereia do mar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
No passado, no canavial
Eu vadiava pra poder esquecer
O chicote me embalava
A Senzala me fazia sofrer
Hoje eu brinco na areia da praia
Jogo Capoeira na beira do mar
Oi, no toque de São Bento
Na brincadeira de Angola
Eu vadiava pra poder esquecer
O chicote me embalava
A Senzala me fazia sofrer
Hoje eu brinco na areia da praia
Jogo Capoeira na beira do mar
Oi, no toque de São Bento
Na brincadeira de Angola
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Ouvi o canto da sereia do mar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Ouvi o canto da sereia do mar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Eu vi roda em Amaralina
No porto da Barra, No Abaetê
Eu vi roda em Itapoan
No Mercado Modelo, na Ilha de Maré
No porto da Barra, No Abaetê
Eu vi roda em Itapoan
No Mercado Modelo, na Ilha de Maré
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Eu quero ver o negro vadiar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Eu quero ver o negro vadiar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
à roda do Gengibirra
Quem levou Pastinha foi Seu Aberrê
Roda que só tinha mestre
E o povo parava pra ver
Quem levou Pastinha foi Seu Aberrê
Roda que só tinha mestre
E o povo parava pra ver
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Eu quero ver o negro vadiar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
The wind shakes the coconut tree
Shook the waves of the sea
Stories of Capoeira
In my story, I'm going to tell
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
I heard the song of the mermaid of the sea
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
In the past, in the carnival
I loafed around to be able to forget
The whip rocked me
The slave camp made me suffer
Today I played on the coast of the beach
I play capoeira on the coast of the sea
Oi, at the playing of Sao Bento
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
Capoeira eu vou jogar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
Eu quero ver o negro vadiar
Na beira do mar, na beira do mar, na areia
The wind shakes the coconut tree
Shook the waves of the sea
Stories of Capoeira
In my story, I'm going to tell
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
I heard the song of the mermaid of the sea
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
In the past, in the carnival
I loafed around to be able to forget
The whip rocked me
The slave camp made me suffer
Today I played on the coast of the beach
I play capoeira on the coast of the sea
Oi, at the playing of Sao Bento
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
I heard the song of the mermaid of the sea
I saw the roda in Amaralina
In the Barra port, in Abaete
I saw the roda in Itapoan
In Mercado Modelo, in Tide Island
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
I heard the song of the mermaid of the sea
I saw the roda in Amaralina
In the Barra port, in Abaete
I saw the roda in Itapoan
In Mercado Modelo, in Tide Island
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
I want to see the black guy loaf around
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
The roda of ginger beer
Whom took Patinha was his Aberre
Roda that only had mestre
And the people stopped to see
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
I want to see the black guy loaf around
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
The roda of ginger beer
Whom took Patinha was his Aberre
Roda that only had mestre
And the people stopped to see
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
Capoeira I am going to play
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
I want to see the black guy loaf around
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
I want to see the black guy loaf around
On the coast of the sea, on the coast of the sea, on the sand
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